Check your safe-Z height. That’s the height it retracts to in between XY moves. You’d be surprised how much extra time the project will take when that’s something like an inch or two vs just enough to clear the work. It makes thousands of those moves up & down (& that’s at the slow speed, not your travel/cut speed).
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I’m sure you can still squeeze some performance out of the other bits as well, but the major offender in this case was the V-bit.
For example, your current chip load on the Amana 46102 is only 0.0028" at 100ipm. The datasheet has it at 0.0050" and 180ipm — still at 18000rpm. But you would need to run some tests on your machine. I do not have this particular tool, nor the other in your file, so I can’t recommend any settings personally. I also don’t know if you have the standard Makita or a more powerful spindle.
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Is this in the toolpaths area in VCarve?
Totally understandable! I’ll do a little experimenting. Thank you so much for all of your help on this! I still have so much to learn but it’s guys like you who make this so much more enjoyable! 
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Here is another explanation of the differences with different V-Carve bits. It is an older video but explains it well. V-Carving for the Absolute Beginner – Part 1 – How It Works - YouTube
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Yes. Bottom of the panel. It defaults to the height set in the project which you probably just accepted when you did the New Project window. I believe that’s 2 1/2" but I overrode my defaults many versions ago so I’m not sure what v10 or 11 have it set at. But it will be high (they do that so you won’t hit clamps in the router’s travel path).
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Ok, I’ll def have a closer look at this and see if I can cut down some time but adjusting accordingly. Thanks so much!
I just have the standard Makita Router. After making your suggested changes to the VBit, I’m down to 2:57 hours to do the job. I’m sure that it can likely be changed to drop that even more, but we’re heading in the right direction.
I forgot to ask you about material for this job. I was in Home Depot this afternoon and was checking out various materials that might be suitable for this. Being that it’s an outdoor sign that will be painted, then finished with an outdoor clear coat, which material would you suggest?
Definitely getting better. Did you find the safe-Z setting?
99% of what I make is for indoor use. I could throw out a few names of woods that may do well outside (cedar, teak, mahogany, white oak…), but I don’t recall Home Depot carrying any of these and if it’s going to be fully sealed, I’m not sure how much the material matters. In any case, I’m sure there are others here that will be able to provide better advice as far as good outdoor results.
Thanks Matticustard for sharing the link…
Home Depot does carry alot of cedar, at least in my area.
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