# Is your router frame a parallelogram? Mine was!

**URL:** <https://forum.onefinitycnc.com/t/is-your-router-frame-a-parallelogram-mine-was/6086>\
**Category:** Original/PRO Series (Buildbotics) (Gen 1)\
**Created:** [June 12, 2021, 6:58pm UTC](https://forum.onefinitycnc.com/t/is-your-router-frame-a-parallelogram-mine-was/6086 "2021-06-12T18:58:58Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 1\
**Showing post:** 86

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**Author:** ![349iq2345](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/3/bb73d2/32.png) [@349iq2345](https://forum.onefinitycnc.com/u/349iq2345)\
**Post date:** [March 2, 2023, 1:00am UTC](https://forum.onefinitycnc.com/t/is-your-router-frame-a-parallelogram-mine-was/6086/86 "2023-03-02T01:00:38Z")

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Hey Techrise,

this method was already discussed above. I think there exists even simpler procedures. At the moment, when asked, I link to this method:

> [@What do I do first](https://forum.onefinitycnc.com/t/what-do-i-do-first/18349/6):
>
> to consider a machine ready to start work, I would make sure, especially with the Onefinity CNC machine, that it is
> 
> 1. **rectangular** (“squared”) and that it is
> 2. **coplanar** (not twisted).
> 
> For checking the rectangularity, there were different methods suggested, but as a first check for **rectangularity** (“squaring”), I would take a bar gauge:
> 
> > [@349iq2345](#):
> >
> > [![LeeValley__Bar_Gauge_Heads_pic6](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex022/uploads/onefinitycnc/original/2X/e/e438df47132bbe3389d4268801a5b566ae1db527.jpeg) ](https://www.leevalley.com/en-gb/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/32585-veritas-bar-gauge-heads?item=05N3101)
> > 
> > [![LeeValley__Bar_Gauge_Heads_pic3](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex022/uploads/onefinitycnc/original/2X/3/3de582c23348bcb124ea3567985823a4b4a4f37e.jpeg) ](https://www.leevalley.com/en-gb/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/32585-veritas-bar-gauge-heads?item=05N3101)
> 
> and stick its ends **diagonally** on the machine right where the chrome tubes go into the black aluminum block, first as a diagonal between left front and right rear, then right front to left rear. Since _in a rectangle the two diagonals are identical_, these two distances should be the same so the machine is square. If you can move the bar gauge to a greater length in one of the two positions than in the other, then the machine is not a rectangle but a parallelogram, that is, the angles are not right angles. This can lead not only to workpieces where right angles are not right, but also, in extreme cases, to blocking of the Y-sliders.
> 
> To adjust this, you need to loosen a little bit the screws of at least two adjacent machine feet (say, e.g. the left and the right front feet), as well as loosen the screws that attach the X-axis to the Y-sliders a bit, so that you can move the feet so that the machine becomes right-angled, i.e. both diagonals can be measured as equal with the bar gauge.
> 
> _For a more accurate test for squareness_, you should do a test with **the machine milling a test rectangle**. Create a rectangle as large as the workarea as g-code and run it on the machine using a v-bit (with minimal cutting depth), and then use a bar gauge or a ruler to check whether or not the diagonals are equal. If you take a ruler, its accuracy or its scale does not matter at all, just make a mark on it when you check one diagonal of the milled rectangle, and check if the mark is identical when you check the other diagonal of the rectangle with it.
> 
> The so-to-speak “official” thread in this forum about rectangularity of the machine is “[Is your router frame a parallelogram? Mine was!](https://forum.onefinitycnc.com/t/is-your-router-frame-a-parallelogram-mine-was/6086)”
> 
> For the second check, the check for **coplanarity** (that the machine is not twisted), you can use _the_ […]

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