Journeyman X50 Setup

Did I see on here somewhere that there is a dust boot available that routes the hose behind the router?

If so wouldn’t that reduce the overall space required front to back. It would be the same as flipping the Y rails to put the motors in the front basically but the motors would remain in the rear.

Hey Bob,

yes, the Infinite Dust Collection Kit (Includes Suck It Pro and PWN CNC v8 dust boot kits). Unfortunately are buying both, since this set contains both the Suck It Dust Boot Pro and the PWN CNC v8.

@AndyP: For the FAQ: Q: 1. Does there exist a Dust Boot that routes the dust hose around the back instead the front?

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Thanks, I didn’t see that option when I ordered. Revising my order now to drop the Suck It Dust Boot Pro and get the combination kit with the Suck It Pro and the PwnCNC v8.

I also somehow screwed up my order and had ordered the Woodworker QCW board, so I want to change that over the the correct size board. However, when I look at the images of the ABOVE and the BELOW versions, the images look to be the same. I don’t see any difference in the two types. They both look to have a flange with holes drilled in it. I don’t see any PEMs or riv-nuts and the flange does not look to be thick enough to be tapped.

So can someone please provide actual photos of a Secure From Above frame including detail of the waste board threaded connections?

I’d like to see what I am actually paying $525 for before I give them my money.

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Yup, I’ve watched the videos, thanks.

Doesn’t show me a close up of the tapped holes in the frame which is what I want to see.

Hey Bob,

this was discussed here the other day: Secure from above vs secure from below, but nobody saw the PEMS there either. Possibly it looks like this:

Swage Nuts

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Yes, I read and made comments in both those threads.

My questions still stands. Nothing anyone has posted here shows the actual unit.
Not looking for drawings, show me a PHOTO of an actual living breathing secure from above waste board frame with a close up of the tapped holes, RIVNUT®, or PEMS or whatever they used.

Or does no one in the World actually own one at this point.

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Hey Bob,

at least I don’t. We received a mail in August saying that the QCW Frames are backordered. I surely would take a picture of it to show you.

Hope this helps!



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Ah, yes, that’s what I wanted to see. Thank you very much.

Is the swage nut pressed in on the underside of the flange? That what it looks like but can’t tell in the photos.

Because of the base that I plan to use for my machine I will have a portion of the table that extends out in front of the bench about 10 inches. My plan was to build a platform from Unistrut and cover with a couple layers of ply and/or MDF.

But now I am thinking about being able to work pieces held vertically and since I have that clear space beneath the front ~10 inches maybe make a removable or hinged section that folds down and would open up a roughly 6" or 8" by 48" hole in the base in which I could clamp the work vertical and be able to work on the end to cut box joints, dovetails, or more elaborate joinery.

This slot could also be where a 4th axis is mounted and with the waste board removed or hinged down the swing along that 4th axis to be much greater allowing for turning items much larger in diameter than would otherwise be possible.

So in place of Unistrut and it’s limited selection of fittings I am leaning toward 80/20 or similar extruded aluminum to build the frame and be able to incorporate the hinged, fold-down section for vertical work or the possibility of a future 4th axis add-on.

Has anyone else thought of or done something like this?

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Hey Bob,

LMGT4U:

Search term was “vertical”
Next could be “rotary axis”

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Thanks, I know how to search.

Hey Bob,

I watched these efforts regarding vertical workholding with admiring enthusiasm. I found many of these implementations very impressive, or what do you think?

I agree. Some good ideas out there from some talented people.
I’ve been reading and watching on YT various implementations
of vertical work holding.

Well, I am going in a completely different direction.

I am not going to use that bench that I have now and posted a photo of earlier in this thread.

I have decided that setting up in the garage is not going to be as comfortable as in the basement. In the basement I have a constant temperature of between 60 and 75 year round. Humidity is low and we have no issues with water in the basement even when we get excessive amounts of rain such as 12" in 36 hours a few years ago. Not a drop so not worried about water or high humidity.

I have more power available. The garage and the adjacent shop are fed by one 50A breaker in the main panel. That is already maxed out with L2 car charger, lights, 1.5T mini-split in the shop for heat and AC, the tablesaw, bandsaw, and all my power tools. I wouldn’t be able to use those other tools with the DC and the CNC running plus lights and some heat in the Winter. But in the basement I should have more than enough power and lots of room. I can set up in one corner of the basement that is 12x12 with nothing in my way. Only down side to this spot is I will have to take down my old HO slot car track that the grandsons like to play with when they visit. But they are about to outgrow them anyways.

So I think I better get cracking on a new table big enough to hold the Journeyman. I have about 7 weeks before the CNC arrives but I also have a few projects I am working on for Christmas that I need to complete soon and get shipped off over 1000 miles away. The way the mail and package delivery systems are running this year I want to get them shipped before Thanksgiving.

I have seen some very nice designs for tables here and on the Onefinity FB Group. I saw one torsion box design with some drawers built in. I thought that was a good idea to have a couple drawers right there to hold some bits, collet wrenches, touch plate, etc.

I also will need to come up with a dust collection system. And I’m leaning toward getting a spindle not too far down the road to reduce the noise and be able to use a larger selection of bits with an ER20 collet.

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Decided on using the Kreg bench frame and building a torsion box top for it. I got the 44"x64" frame since the Journeyman needs a larger table.

I plan to add some panels to the frame which will close it in and help to stiffen the frame. Plus the added mass of the cabinet I will build underneath and whatever I put in there will help stabilize the table.

I do want to leave a spot where I can secure a workpiece vertically up near to (but not directly) up front so need to noodle that out before I build the torsion box top. Maybe the two will not work together. But I was thinking of making a rectangular removable section that runs along the X axis. If I plan an build for that when making the torsion box it might work.

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For dust collection I’m looking at using the HF 1HP 650CFM dust
collector with a Jet cyclonic separator on a 30 gallon barrel up front
to catch the big stuff.

Anyone use one of these type separators and if so what do you think of it?

https://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/jet-cyclone-separator/717600

I thought the Jet version was better than rolling my own as Under Dunn tried. :slight_smile:

WOW! It is a clear variation on the venerable Dust Deputy XL. One upside is that you can pull up a chair and watch the dust go by while you pretend to not hear the increasingly annoyed/urgent calls to dinner. The downside is that you’ll go broke buying flowers to go with your apologies for not hearing the call to dinner.

I bit the bullet and bought a whole shop unit from Harvey tools. The Gyro Aire 700. It is similar to the Binford 5000 dust management system - just not blue. It is “only” a 2hp unit, but it handles the chores in an entirely different manner than a standard dust collector. Those two horses will suck your eyeballs out of your head if you get a single hose too close to your face while the unit is running. When you get to four gates open it calms down enough to vacuum the leftovers out of your beard and leave it nicely fluffed so you can go on being the chick magnet you were born to be. It also prints its own “Wanted” posters for dust particles. In color! It does its work quietly. It cost something more up front, by my days of second-guessing and trying and failing with modest solutions that actually add up to $$$ when all the experimentation is done, are over. When introduced, it went for $4000. Since Harvey bought out the inventor and manufacturing has shifted to China, it goes for $2100-$2200 depending on the special being run. 220 volts and 400+ pounds. You’ve been warned.

Say - Under Dunn’s project appears to be a homemade version of the Gyro Aire 700.

Bottom line (literally) is that Dust Deputies work well when used with a reasonably powered shop vac and even better when paired with a “real” dust collector.

Jim

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I know how well the Oneida dust deputy products work, I have three of them of various types/sizes. I have no problem with any of them.

Yes, Under Dunn’s project was a copy of the Harvey Gyro Air 700, he said as much so no surprise there. He even recommended that you NOT try building one because it was a PITA and took too much time and was not as good as the Harvey.

For this DC system it is stand alone. It does not have to process dust/chips from any tool other than the CNC.

I don’t think the Jet cyclonic separator is a variation of the Dust Deputy XL. I am not aware of any DD that has an internal configuration like the Jet or the Harvey. But I have not peeked inside a DD XL so I can’t say for sure. Apparently you can so you’re saying the DD XL looks like the Jet inside that opaque exterior?

Bottom line for me is for this application I want something that is quiet, not a screaming banshee that is a wet/dry vac. I want something that has higher volume (CFM not static pressure) than a wet/dry vac can create. And I want something with connections for larger hose than a wet/dry vac. And last but not least I want something with better filtration that can be had with a wet/dry vac. I know about Festool HEPA dust extractors and the like. I’ve had a Festool CT-36 and a CT-SYS for years. I know what they are capable of and I could use them but they are dedicated to other tools in different locations.

And with the Harvey no longer made in the USA it has reduced attraction to me.