Makita Bearing went Bad

Hey David,

usually the best would be if the heat can flow upwards from the outlet. And of course that it can get fresh air to its inputs


Here’s an image of the cooling station in its ‘cabinet / shelf’

Hey David,

thanks for showing the photo!

I would not think that the positioning shown should make a problem. Or were the openings on the sides more to the wall?

Maybe there was another problem that led to the temperature rise? Do you use enough of their cooling liquid (9 liters)?

Cooling fluid level confirmed within specifications. The open face (during usual operations) is about 10" from a wall. But the most serious (former) problem was that the cooling station was turned 90 degrees, with the fan output toward the longest wall seen int the image. One side was much closer to the wall that separates it from the VFD enclosure (right side of the image). Attached is a photo of the front of the cabinet. The front and back portions are separated by a panel that runs the length of the cabinet.

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Hey David,

that could have been disadvantageous.

What a beautiful machine table you have! I envy you for this.

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Thank you. I made a torsion box, wrapped with ash wood taken from a tree my neighbor felled. The base is simple cabinetry made from a red oak I had to take down several years ago. The design was inspired by an outfeed table on YouTube: DownToEarth Woodworking.
I’m an amateur woodworker before I’m any kind of CNC expert.

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I am interested in knowing more about replacing that bearing. Do you need any special tools to do this repair? I am thinking I am going to order a backup Makita from Mr. Bezos. I have had my OF since March and would not be surprised if I have the same situation developing.

Greetings,

(4 Pack) PGN 6003-2RS Sealed Ball Bearing - C3-17x35x10 - Lubricated - Chrome Steel

Found on Amazon and it fits.

Removal:
My gear pullers did not fit between air fins and the bearing. Too tight. So, I placed 2 hardened steel strips that DID FIT between air fins and bearing, placed it on a vise and carefully pounded it out with a hammer.

Install:
A vise and a 18mm deep socket with a hammer. Pound on socket to push on new bearing.

Russ

These are trim routers, meant to run for short on and off cycles, probably never intended to run non stop. The fact more don’t die quickly is amazing actually.

Buying this, I’d buy it at a big box and slap on the like 2 year extended warranty, I think it is $12. When it dies, you take it back, get a new one in exchange, and optionally buy another $12 warranty.

My opinion, just move up to an 80mm spindle. Designed for the task. No brushes. Fully controlled by software. Water cooled are basically sealed, so no worries of packing debris into them as a air cool can. Skip 65mm spindles, as they conflict with the stock mount.

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@Cryptonym Big Box store is not a bad idea. I bought both of my Makitas from the Evil Empire and had to take it to a warranty repair center. After a few times (OK, six times???), they ask you how you’re using it and unless you outright lie, they tell you they won’t repair it anymore because a CNC is not an applicable use. The Big Box store might not have time to care and just swap it out.

Moving to an 80mm water-cooled spindle is the way to go but if can be complicated (if you buy the parts yourself and attempt to build) or sort of expensive if you buy a kit. Here’s my scenario: 80mm Z20 Mount ($375), 80mm PwnCNC spindle ($900), adding a 220V circuit ($200-$400??), Misc:CableMgt,Hoses etc. ($300??) and how many hours?? It’s not a simple path (I’m just getting started) but when you are done, I’m thinking we’ll all have one hell of a machine.

And maybe even some updated firmware!!! (It sounds like we are getting close.)

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Hey Jim,

you are quite right not to gloss over the circumstances under which one reaches the installation and use of a three-phase induction motor with VFD (aka spindle), even if that is the superior technology for the purpose.

That’s why it’s even sadder that there are many plug-and-play milling motors out there that just won’t burn out when you use them in a CNC, in fact, they’re made for it – but the Onefinity still has no mount for these.

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Seems like it would not be too tough to either make your own or have an adapter made to fit the AMB, much less in all ways then the VFD/Spindle

Hey Pat,

not necessarily entirely straightforward, as discussed here the other day. But surely feasible I think!

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I missed the previous conversation, looks to have been covered pretty good.
Pat

@Aiph5u Very interesting concept; the theory is that 1F makes a mount for the “Euro 43mm” and we can run our machines all day long with 110V via air cooling and no VFD?!?! Even RPM control?? That seems so simple! At first it made me sort of regretting pulling the trigger on the 80mm spindle/VFD until I read further in the thread and realized that 1F is probably not going to do it anytime soon and any custom adapters that people are considering aren’t quite worked out such that I could be up and running anytime soon.

Is that the basic gist??

Doesn’t anybody make a 65mm version of the 43mm machines?

Hey Jim,

if you follow the thread that discussed that the other day to its end, you see that the problem arises that the 65 and 80 mm mounts that Onefinity offers do not protrude down below the Z assembly at all. Therefore they rely exclusively on long cylindrical milling motors like the Makita hand trim router or the cylindrical 80 mm spindles. This works only because Onefinity expects that you slide the milling motor more or less downwards in the mount before you clamp it (unfortunately hereby making the entire assembly more unstable and prone to chattering at high loads).

But the motors with 43 mm “Euro” mount have that diameter only where it makes sense technically: Directly where the motor shaft leaves the motor. Look at how the AMB (former Kress), Suhner, and Mafell milling motors look like: The 43 mm portion is only of a defined height, enough to be clamped at this point, and thereby – unlike with the Onefinity mounts – clamped at the technically most reasonable point, regarding the motor. So if you just create a 43 mm mount that looks like the 65 and 80 mm Onefinity mounts, and clamp a 43 mm motor into it, it is unlikely that you reach your workpiece, which usually is a few inches more below.

So what a 43 mm mount for such motors would need, is that it protrudes down below the Z assembly. How this could look like is shown in the thread linked above.

These milling motors for 43 mm mount are extremely popular in Europe and the standard in hobby and semi-professional CNC machines.

cnc_router_high_z_s_1000t-1 _1000ms

The 65 mm diameter (or 68 mm on the DeWalt) comes from hand trim routers being something you want to comfortably hold in your hand, and also to use an accessory called “trimmer base” that you can slide up and down the cylindrical part.

And hand trim routers are what Warren pointed out above:

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Maybe a silly question, but why could you not adapt one of the AMB spindles to the OneFinity? They sell Holder for ∅43 Euro and Zero point clamping system so couldn’t this be adapted?

In watching a videos’ on the AMB it appears this would be a great upgrade for those who do not want to go with a VFD.

Thougths?
-Alex

Hey Alex,

this becomes clear when you follow the thread that discussed that the other day to its end;

Thank you, great thread. Bookmarked and hopefully (maybe even OneFinity) can come up with a solution. This seems like a much better mouse trap if the mounting plate can be solved and produced.

Thanks
-Alex

I can smell that from here… lol

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