Had to try this Star Wars Aztec Calendar. 13 hour carve with a 60 degree v-bit.
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Probably a v-bit, I don’t think anything else would be able to get the crisp corners.
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Sorry for any confusion, but I wanted to know exact bit for the case engraving? Assuming V-bit, but what angle, brand?
I used a simple 30 deg. V-bit I got off Amazon. Pretty much my go-to bit for most engraving jobs.
But the technique is very important to get it to come out this clean.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HC98K2C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
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Simple little project just playing around. I love the woodworking, but I don’t have time to do much at home since my full time job is CNC Programmer. Unfortunately, I cannot replace my job programming aircraft parts with programming wood parts. I am tired of metals and love woodworking. so I play at home when I can and give projects away to friends and family most of the time.
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The Marvel one is great as well. What settings were you using? I did a 24" Star Wars calendar and it took 4 hours at most. Painting wasn’t that fun, but I recently found sheets of all black (through and through) MDF, so I’ll give that a try.
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Tried something a little different with this piggy bank. Need to knock a couple more out before Christmas.
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The 1F make such awesome toys and toy wheels. Knocked this one out this afternoon. Farmall H cartoon scale. The tread on the tires make such a satisfying rumble sound.
Couple things I’ll change on grain orientation on the next one, but good enough. Sapele and walnut.
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Pretty cool!
A big smokestack and a rollbar and it’d be ready for a pulling contest!
Pony
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IH has always been a family favorite. I thought about a smokestack, but thought it would be too delicate at this scale.
Some 3-sided carvings of Herons in Walnut. The third side (bottom) was to get the area between the legs and drill out mortises for the leg tendons. I printed the legs and feet to go with the bodies. For the base I made a random shape with tapered edges and used a picture of sand ripples off the web to create the 3d top surface effect.
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I’m trying to understand how you did these. I assume left and right sides are the first 2 as per a normal 2 sided project but the bottom seems like a challenge. Do you do the 2 sides then put the bird in a jig of some sort to do the cutting on the bottom? How to you manage to do it without breaking off the neck? I’m assuming if the bird is laying on its back, then the neck is pointing up well into the danger zone of moving machine parts.
@Atroz, we are thinking the same thing 
@SkyKam I really like these. I have been perfecting my 2 sided 3D carves using F360, and have a system now that allows me to make my ‘Eames House Bird’ inspired carves with greater efficiency. I appreciate the work that you put into these, and the use of the 3D printed parts. I used mine to make a jig, based off the bird body, that enables the precise drilling of the holes for the stainless steel legs.
Would love to see some images/video of the machining or process.
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To help you understand, I arrange the body of the feeding heron in the stock like this.
The bottom left corner in the screen shot is always used as the zero point for all three setups. Each of the 3 setups orients the stock to place this corner in a right-angle fixture. I only need to probe once for the inside corner of the fixture to set x and y zero for all 3 setups. Z-zero changes from being either on top of the stock or the bottom. You can see from the next screen shot where I put tabs to fix and suspend the body relative to the stock. The tabs are trimmed and sanded by hand after the carving is complete.
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Thank you for sharing this - it is helpful.
Is the bottom machining done first or last?
Do you cut the tabs with a saw for bird removal?
I finish my tabs by hand as well - I am able to use only four in total - and hope the sanding I do completely eliminates any clue to them being used. I have found that using a very sharp knife to shave the remaining tab as close to the bird as possible is helping, however I am still a bit anxious doing it.
I for each of my sides I use an adaptive clearing with a 2 flute 1/4" flat end mill, followed by a scallop toolpath with a 2 flute 1/8" ball nose endmill that goes just above the tabs. The last tool path is the same scallop but from just above to just below the tabs/bird centre line. I found that when I had just one scallop toolpath, it was referencing the tabs from the very beginning, which caused a much slower carve and the endmill not following the form of the bird as nicely.
Such as satisfying project - you must be pleased.
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I am pleased in how they turned out. I machine the bottom last. For one thing I can cut away part of the stock that is just in the way and don’t need extra tool paths to carve it. There is just a little bit of carving between the legs that doesn’t take long.
I cut the tabs and remaining stock carefully at the bandsaw then use a Dremel to do some initial sanding of the bumps and finally hand sanding. I might be able to get away with fewer tabs, but I haven’t tried.
When I do my scallop finishing tool path, I use the avoid surface option with a .01-inch clearance to not machine the tabs. The tabs are a separate component from the bird model and are not in the setup model. It seems to go around them fine.
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Thank you for sharing - I appreciate it.
I am still very new to F360, and learning as I go is an understatement.
With a combination of YT tutorials, Autodesk forum questions, and ‘uninformed yet intuitive’ experimentation I have learned a lot - I really am enjoying both the CAM and CAD side of things. I bought my first 3D printer about 2 years ago, and that is what me started with F360. Not long after came my Woodworker - my first venture into machining - and that is when my CAD/CAM skills started to improve out of necessity and a motivation to bring my designs to life.
I made the tabs part of the model, but may try a new scallop path where I try the avoid surface option. I was thinking of using a rotary tool as well, but was worried I might gouge the body. Thinking about it, it can’t be any more stressful than me trying to avoid slipping with the knife and taking out a slice of the body 
I found a wood supplier just north of Toronto where I live, and I think they will be a good future source for my projects. I am currently making birds from roasted ash and padauk that I purchased on my last visit, with the plan to try walnut, teak, and mahogany next.
Having purposely started my machining practice on aluminum, I must say that working with wood is more enjoyable than I thought it would be.
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@SkyKam second @TMToronto on video if you have the process documented. getting very interested in doing some 3d carves. i am getting very familiar with fusion 360 now and ready to up my game. or so i think 
looks fantastic.
j.
I recently created a YT channel to share my build progress and projects with friends, family, and interested forum members.
Here is the link if interested … https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNODaFn5oxJbaxJ85A2C5Hg
The bird video is one of the last - past the aluminum and build videos.
I am currently collecting photos and video clips for a newer video that shows the entire process. My plan is to machine QR codes that link to the videos of the products I plan (maybe?) to sell in the future. Each sculpture will come with a little wooden QR code carve. That is the vision anyway
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