A recent project required countersunk screws. When the countersink did its work, the table deflected so much that a small ‘low’ area remains. That can be repaired by repeating the spoilboard cutting step, but I’d like to prevent the problem. (Reducing plunge speed didn’t solve it).
My Journeyman rests on a very flat torsion box. I could put a few blocks with concave tops beneath the QCW. The hard way would be to make them from wood blocks. The easy way would be to contact one of the 3-D printing folks who make Onefinity support products. They should be able to add to their line, since this is likely to resonate with other users.
Does anyone (Onefinity Support??) know the diameter required to match the QCW tubes, and the minimum height (bottom of the arc) to properly support the middle of the QCW? Does anything like this already exist?
I find this intriguing… I have made the mistake of leaning on the front rail of my qcw causing it to deflect but I can’t see how a cutting bit would unless working on metals and smoking bits… I trust your experience as obviously I was not there… Just intrigued…
Is it possible to add a dwell at the bottom of the countersink? It could be that the plunge isn’t getting a a number of full revolutions at the bottom depth thus deflection or just incomplete cuts could occur.
The countersink is sharp, and was cutting acrylic. The deflection was most severe when beginning each pass, and the QCW visibly began to return as the cutter did its job. I used a “pecking” technique, with about 0.06” per pass. I didn’t pre-drill, because the countersink makes a hexagonal hole if you do that. You get a smooth round result if you drill second.
In fairness, the countersink is designed for either metal or wood.
I can shim with a board, thicknessed to fit. The only advantage to individual supports is the ease of cleaning up the debris that somehow gathers under the QCW. At present, I just blow it out with the outflow of the shop-vac. But maybe simple is better.
Oh, and as for remaining deflection: it’s very small. When I used a diamond drag to put registration lines on the acrylic piece, the portion over the center of the QCW was visibly lighter (less deep).
This tells me it is a spoil board surfacing issue or a material thickness issues. A diamond drag bit shouldn’t cause deflection and any permanent sag would be fixed by surfacing the spoil board.