Looking for objective opinion on real world value. I have looked at a ton of youtube videos showing what different people are able to accomplish with this type of laser and I am not doubting its power in that way. What I am asking is if the investment for adding a laser head to the OF setup is more cost effective than just buying a separate dedicated laser engraver.
I’ve mostly been using my laser on my onefinity lately. I didn’t buy the 7W laser because I already had a JTech 4.2W laser from my old xcarve and put it on the onefinity. Depending on what you plan to do with the laser it may be more cost effective to get one of their lower watt lower prices lasers but either way if you plan on using it a decent amount I think it’s worth the price to buy one to hook up to the machine. I myself don’t have room for another machine so that is amother big reason I just have this instead of a dedicated machine. I would love to have a co2 laser but I just don’t have the room not the needs for one right now. Maybe later down the road though.
Thanks for the reply. I guess it is the 7w specs of the jtech laser that have me scratching my head. I have seen these laser engravers online for less money that seem more powerful than the j tech. This Ortur laser master is 20w for 398.99. https://www.amazon.com/ORTUR-Laser-Master-Engraving-Motherboard/dp/B08CBV9FQ2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=laser%2Bengraving%2Bmachine&qid=1616460185&sr=8-1-spons&smid=A10KIEJZXJOX14&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFRMUc3RzZZVUhZSlQmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwMTQzNjgzQk9OWThJOENLOUNOJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNzM3NDkzOThLVEkxTFVQQVhJJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
I also saw this laser from endurance lasers 10w for 445.00 https://endurancelasers.com/
The research I was doing indicated that 7w is the highest output realistically possible for a diode laser (or whatever technology the Jtech is using). The other ratings are “input” power - not “output” laser power. Basically marketing folks playing games and preventing true apples-to-apples comparisons.
Not an expert, don’t own one, just looking at them for the fun of it this week.
Yep a lot of those are not the output power listed. I know a lot of the ones on Amazon say they are 10-20W but really only like 4W of output
I have been exchanging emails with the guy at endurance lasers and he said that the 10w and 15w duo laser is basically 2x 7w lasers combined using a prism to combine the laser strengths giving true 10w. They are currently working on a true 25w version.
From what I have researched using anything less than 20w would be for wood only. Trying to do any kind of metal or really thick wood and these other lasers will just scratch the surface.
For what it does and the cost associated it would not seem cost effective to invest in this add on until the technology is a bit further along.
Yeah it all depends on what you are going to be doing with the laser. I am using a 4.2W laser from jtech with mine and I have pretty much only been using it to engrave (remove powder coating) on tumblers and selling those. I’ve only used it on wood and a couple of anodized aluminum sheets before now.
I’m debating adding the 7W laser to my Onefinity order. How do you engrave the tumblers with the curved surface? Does the laser go up and down the Z axis to follow the curve? Thanks!
I have a rotary that I hook up to my controller and use that instead of the Y axis. So it will move in the X direction and turn the tumbler instead of moving in the Y direction. If you don’t have/get one of those you can laser the tumbler still but its a smaller area you can engrave without making it turn I forgot exactly the size of the rectangle that my 4.2W laser could engrave without the rotary but i wanted to be able to have the ability to do graphics all the way around instead of that small rectangular area.
Oh, that’s awesome. Do you have a link for the rotary? Did you have to do any configuration in the controller for it?
I am using this one. But I’m sure you could use most any of them as long as you wire it up correctly. And yeah I had to go into the controller and change a few things but I have two configurations saved in there. One for when I use the rotary (A axis enabled for M1 and Y2 disabled) and the other is the standard configuration. I just unhook my rotary wire from the controller move it out of the way and plug the two Y axis cables into the controller and load the stock configuration when I want to use the machine standard. Also you will have to add a couple lines of code to the vectric post processor if you use vectric for this. I did that but then I switched to lightburn. If you decide to go with one I can show you some pics of that I set my settings to in the controller and stuff. It’s really pretty simple but this isn’t true rotary as it doesn’t compensate for changes in the diameter of the object and stuff which someone pointed out in the forum before. But this is fine for what I use it for on the tumblers.