I came across this thread in one of the forums I regularly visit and thought it might be of interest to HY spindle owners. It has photos of one that was cut open and taken apart.
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/chinese-machines/373798-inside-huanyang-2-2k-spindle-gdz-80-a.html
I’m glad I have an air-cooled spindle - no risk of water leaking and rusting out the spindle!
That is true. I believe at the end of the discussion they determined it was not water leakage, rather the motor burned out. Apparently the burning of the coil varnish and lamination/insulation causes corrosive rusting similar to water damage.
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One thing I noticed about my HY spindle is the water fittings on the spindle are the bottleneck. I get great flow when the waterlines are looped together where they would connect to the spindle. But once the lines are connected up to the spindle the flow drops to about 1/2. I actually looked at that page to see if it was possible to drill and tap to put larger diameter fitting on the spindle.
However I don’t know if it’s needed. I’ve been very good about monitoring the temp of the spindle during and at the end of a cut. It only gets luke warm so the water flow must be good. My guess is that most people with a water cooled spindle don’t even have a simple pinwheel to show flow. I’m guessing that spindle burnt up because the water flow got obstructed and it overheated.
I actually have a meter with a switch so if the flow drops too low the switch will stop the 1f controller and the spindle will just run without a load. I’m hoping once I connect the vfd to the controller that I can have it so if the controller is stopped it’ll stop the 1F (vs shutting off the VFD possibly before the controller stops).
@TugBoat - is the temperature display your own design? I have a flow indicator as well, but am lacking temperature monitoring.
Hi Caleb - the brackets were surplus and temp display is a computer water cooling part that comes from Amazon. The original seller I bought mine from has delisted it but this one looks identical. I put it on the return loop to see what temps the spindle maxes out at. I bought 6mm G4 connectors (link ) for everything and used 1/4" tube left over from an RO unit install as it is stiff and won’t kink. I have since updated the return loop by putting in a radiator and three high speed fans.
The power supply for the temperature gauge is plugged into an outlet that is controlled by a solid state relay connected to the VFD. The same outlet also has the water pump plugged into it and the same solid state relay controls a 4" dust collection system. The same power supply for the temperature gauge also powers four other fans, a 120mm fan which cools the VFD as I snipped off the tiny 40mm (?) fan which was useless and noisy. It also powers three high CFM fans on a radiator (added after the picture was taken).
The switched 24v DC relays on the VFD also control a motorized ball valve (US Solid - you can see it in the background of the photo) for blowing compressed air to clear out shavings as I work mostly with aluminum.
When the VFD starts up the spindle, the temp gauge, the VFD cooling fan, the three radiator fans, the dust collection system, the coolant pump and the compressed air all switch on.
One cool thing is the VFD’s outputs exactly match the motorized ball valve’s inputs - when the VFD turns the spindle off, one 24v line goes high closing the ball valve and when the spindle turns on, another 24v line goes high and the ball valve opens.
I also have a light switch wired to toggled between “auto” mode, i.e. the SSR is controlled by the VFD and “manual” mode which powers everything up for testing/cleaning, i.e. the dust collection system, radiator fans, coolant pump, temp gauge, and VFD cooling fan. The “auto” switch, VFD, air compressor and Onefinity controller (actually connected to a UPS) also light up individual 120v LED lights, so I can see what is on (or off) at a glance.