I use the pink RV antifreeze for the pass 1 1/2 years with no issues
good to know. Was considering the same. I donāt need to protect from freezing but I do want to avoid corrosion. Do you change it? Have you ever checked it to see if it is changing the look of it? E.g. getting cloudy or anything that would indicate that materials are being eaten away?
I have not changed it, but i think i might this weekend and let you know.
Hi,
Iām thinking of ordering one of these and would like to know what I need for tubing. You said you use 8mm ID tube, but isnāt the fitting on the unit 10mm on the outside of it or are they saying it fits a 10mm OD not that they are 10mm? Did it just stretch over? Are you using silicon? Did you need a reducer to go in to a spindle? They seem to be 6mm ID.
Thanks.
I had to use a reducer but donāt remember the exact dimensions/sizes. I can try to take a pick and look through my Home Depot/Loweās History. Also, I am in the US, so everything I had to do is kind of riggedā¦
Wait until you get it. Vevor is a giant āAmazon Likeā Chinesium seller.
Like many chinese made tools and the like, the manufactuers all copy one another. Vevor sells their wares and puts the Vevor name on it. So the small details may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.
I have one and I bought new fittings and polyeurathane tubing from McMaster when I received it. The weak point in these seem to be the tubing and the hose clamps. The coolers are simple devices but a little elbow grease on this area of weakness may pay dividends.
I changed the back connectors to these push on/release fittings McMaster-Carr
I used this firm polyurathane tubing: McMaster-Carr
My German made spindle came with quick release fittings on it for the coolant connections. The spindle coolant connections were for 5mm I.D./ 8 mm O.D. tubing. So that is what I used and adapted that to the Vevor cooler.
Ya. I hunted for a while to find a āCW-3000ā seller that clearly had the metal fittings, etc. Although their pictures would show them, comments from buyers would say they were plastic. Apparently at one time there was a real radiator (like in a car) in these but at some point it became just a coil. Some ads for it talk about a compressor delay mode, where thereās no compressor in these. Some pictures show a water level gauge on the front, others on the back, etc. Some prices were all over the place, which made me feel some of the bigger name brands may even have their names stolen and slapped on another cheaper box. Some comments like āIf you get a good one they are greatā. Seems like a real crapshoot now what you get, which makes it even more important to be careful who you buy it from.
I got so disappointed with the state of things I looked in to building my own. It didnāt look like it was going to be worth it so I think Iāve decided to just buy one from Amazon.ca and cross my fingers. Figure out what Iām dealing with when it is in my hands. Return it if it has problems.
Hey Alan, hey Atroz, hey all,
these nice toolless hose connectors on HFS Series (datasheet) and their cooling stations are Festo QS8
Daniel @PwnCNC offers no-spill quick disconnect fittings
A chiller is way overkill. I have done nothing longer than a 1 hour carve but temperatures have not gone above 10-20 degrees above ambient. My setup is a PC 2 fan intercooler with a small reservoir and a pump. It uses pc coolant which functions like a glycol with algaecide. I also put in a digital flow/temp readout
Setup was under $100
Yes @Aiph5u, my Mechatron came with Festo fittings on it and the McMaster ones I linked are also Festo. Makes it quite easy to connect or disconnect the lines.
Hey George,
these water chillers/cooling stations donāt contain much else than what others buy as loose components, but the reason to buy a cooling station is that it has temperature and flow sensors and an interface which you connect to the VFD which then always knows if spindle temperature is within the range, and can halt the spindle and the CNC program by itself. Itās mainly a hobbyist/professional thing, hobbyists usually have the time to stand beside the machine while it does a job , while a more industrial approach wants the system to do the monitoring (and halt it safely by itself in case of errors)
Hey Alan,
yes, had a look at your link, good to see you can get the stuff and improve the chiller
The CW-3000 is not really a chiller. Itās just a radiator system thatās pre-built and in a nice package.
Edit: Forgot to comment on the temperature increase thing. 3D carves can go for a long time, Iāve done over 7 hours. If I start at 21Āŗ and increased by 10Āŗ an hour Iād be in trouble within just 2 hours as I think I read the spindles donāt want to go above 35Āŗ.
Exactly. The temperature and flow sensor that can be connected to the VFD was the big selling point for me. I looked at the PC radiator route and some got pretty expensive (and I donāt need addressable RGB lighting) and would still need flow sensor switches and temperature switches/displays. In the end I could build one and debated doing it for fun, but I could also just buy one for about the same cost.
When I was searching I couldnāt find much info. Hereās a short (unfortunately bumpy) video I did. Turned out that this worked better than I expected.
Looks like it is your own video. I looked at a lot of these on YouTube and never came across this one unfortunately. I guess their algorithms worked against you/me.
Hey all,
well I paid much more for mine, but as Mr. R. says, it has a tank cap that must be the most elegant, cncāed tank cap ever
Well it has the Big M on it! That is triple the cost right there.
Did you get a chance to do the change? My chiller arrived today but itāll be some days yet before I set it up.
I went to grab 2 jug of RV antifreeze I had with the intent of using them in the CW-3000. I checked the label on it and it said āNot for used in closed loop chilling systemsā and āDo not use around sparksā. That made me second guess using it.