I’ve just setup my new Redline spindle. All seems to be good running the break-in currently. I am trying to figure out why the VFD controller is displaying 2.5 when everything is idle. I have the 220 model and like I said all so far seems to be working just fine. The speed is displayed when the spindle is running and that seems close. Any help would be appreciated.
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I spoke with Onefinity this morning and they said this was normal. I asked if a parameter could be adjusted to display 0 at idle. They said I needed to reach out to Redline with that question. I’ll do that this next week and see what they say. Another bit of info, it displays 2 or 2.5 only when the MASSO is switched on. Not sure if that’s important just information. I worked with it most of the day and had no problems that weren’t self induced. Stay tuned…
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Just an update on this from Redline. Seems the 2 or 2.5 is the current. This is the reply from Redline:
The 2.0 or 2.5 displayed shows the voltage, current, or frequency that is currently running through the system. It will not display RPM’s until it is told to turn the spindle on either through gcode (automatically) or through manually turning it on. It does not effect the spindle kits normal operations. It is ok to use as is, that’s normal.
The RPM’s won’t be exact but close enough. This is because your CAD is telling it to run at a certain hertz and that number may not be exactly synced to the spindle kit itself. Again, this is normal and doesn’t interfere with the spindle kits ability to function normally. You are safe to ignore these. As long as your RPM’s are close in automatic mode and you can adjust with the dial in manual mode, you are good to go.
Just making anyone wondering aware. I’ve been setting up as if I’d just received a new 1f complete with a rewire of the table, new spoil board and trying to cover all the things I missed the first time on the initial 1f setup over a year ago.
Cheers to all and happy carving.
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Hey @kenmachdata , thanks for this. I have one on the way and I would have been stuck on this.
I just had my soon to ship order changed from the 80mm 100v to the 220v. What 220 plug is it using? I need to add an outlet.
NEMA 6-30P, thank you very much good sir!
Turns out it was a lot easier to get 220 in my garage than I thought when I ordered.
And I already ran two new dedicated 100v 20A circuits to 2-20R outlets to where the machine will live. With your help, I can now have one of those changed out to the proper 220 by the time I get the spindle.
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OH, orrrrrr. Could be a 6-15. same layout, different size pins. grrr. plenty of time.
hurrrdurrrr, RTFM. right there. thought 30 seemed excessive
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I ran new dedicated circuits to the table as well. One 110 and a 220. The 220 is 6-20R and the 110 is standard 15 amp 110 outlet. Both are now part of my table where as before both lived at the wall. Very convenient to have as part of the table. I’m always plugging in something and not having cords strung all over the floor is a good thing. I seem to have enough mess and anything I can clean up as I go works for me. BTW the install of the spindle was very straight forward. Attach the cables and power. Check the F1 main spindle setting on the Masso and all should work. Word of caution, the button on the DRO that sets things to manual mode is very useful. You can try out a speed on your spindle. If you’re like me all my tools were programed without any concern of speed as I was using a router and I knew what the speed of the router was. Trust me, it’s not that way with a spindle. Seems that just like the CNC, it does exactly what you tell it to do. 
Hope you get it all setup soon. It is, at least for me, an “uncontrollable interest”.
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Yeah, it a NEMA 15A 220v plug.
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Remember too that if you already have 220 in the garage but not the correct outlet for your type of machine, they sell all kinds of adapters for just about any 220V outlet/plug combination. If you don’t want to have an electrician change your outlet to the one you need, they are anywhere from 10 to 30 bucks. Alot less than the minimums the sparkies charge.
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Fortunately enough, my neighbor is an industrial electrician, and I have a friend who runs his own resi company as well. So I get advice, if not actual work, from sparkies for free. So I got that going for me, which is nice.
The spot where the 220 will go is currently run as a 110 20A, I have enough conductors in the conduit to swap that over to 220 easy enough, and then change the outlet to match. For now the 110 outlet is fine since I will be on a router for a few more weeks before the spindle is here. Everything is just exposed armored cable and metal boxes screwed to posts in an unfinished metal pole barn style building. Everything I have added is fully code compliant, the work that was already there, eh not so much.
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I got my notice woohoo! as to electrics up until recently i had my old X50 in my wood shop running on a heavy-duty extension cord. but had the electrics in my garages upgraded soi can put a generator in for emergency power. I had the guy put in three separate plugs one is 220 the other two are 110. So, I am ready for the machine to come, and the little bugger is on its way!
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I installed my new Redline spindle and all is working as expected except for the z cutting depth. The z cutting depth is exactly twice what it should be. Both x and y are perfect. The controller is a Buildbotics and I am running the latest version which is V1.6.2. The config was reset, the tool selected is the Redline VFD. Any suggestions to get around this issue are appreciated.
Sounds like you choose the wrong z slider type when resetting the config.
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That resolved the issue. Thank you so much for the quick response. Back to carving now!!
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Do either of you have this installed on an elite machine (ie has a drag chain)? I cant figure out how to get the spindle cord through the very last link next to the Z slider or the first link on the Y rail. The hole to run it thru its too small for the end connector to fit.
Don’t the drag chains pop open completely? Using a little flat head screwdriver you can open them up to lay the cord in.
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Thanks guys, I was talking about the very first link before you get to the spots you can open the drag chain. Turns out you can pry the chain out of the starting bracket to get it through the first one hole then from there open each link. Hard to explain and worse to take a picture of.
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The drag chain pops open with a small screwdriver. To get the cord in you need to remove the drag chain where you described. It pops out of the last piece that mounts to the 1f on either end. I’m sure you’ve figured it out by now. Hope that’s your hardest issue
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