Is there going to be a QCW base for the Apprentice? I was originally looking at the Elite Gen 2 Woodworker, but after reading and measuring I think it’s just a little too big for my space. (33” machine turns into 48x52 with all the clearances and electronics ) So I need something a bit smaller. The Apprentice is a little smaller than I’d like, but it would fit my space. However I don’t see a QCW option for that one.
If you don’t have the QCW then what do you use for the spoil board and work holding?
Honestly I have been hobby cnc’ing for a long time, and either use painters tape and CA glue method or just screw stuff to the spoil board. Maybe one day I will see the light about clamps and t-track, but in my early days I killed a few clamps and bits and just stopped using clamps. When laying out sheet material it is pretty easy to design in your screw locations and have the CNC mark them. I’ve never hit a screw doing it that way. I use CA glue and painters tape method if i can now…makes life pretty easy.
If you don’t have the QCW then what do you attach the machine to? Is it screwed right into the table? If you do that then don’t you lose Z height by putting a spoil board down after that?
I currently have a small desktop CNC called a Carvera, which is an all in one package that came fully assembled. I’m not really well versed on how these bigger machines are typically assembled.
Yeah it gets screwed to the table. If you are concerned about losing z you could add some riser blocks under the mounting points to give you back whatever you feel you lost from the spoil board.
That was my experience going back many years (& other machines). Then I switched to wooden clamps and nylon bolts when not using blue tape (gets less effective as the spoil board gets munged up), double-sided tape or 23 gauge pin nails. I found screws would create little humps in the spoil board that I’d have to flatten with a hammer.
Pin nails are sacrificial if they get hit by a bit but can only be used when I’m going to trim the material when I’m done and I do a lot of cutting board inlays so I’m working on a board already cut to finished size. They also don’t always pull out cleanly from the spoil board and then if I hit them with a pin in a new project they deflect and don’t hold.
When I setup my new Foreman I switched again to a Matchfit Microjig setup so I don’t have to worry about hitting the t-track either. I 3D print the little dovetail pieces, use the nylon bolts and 3D print clamping plates too. Now the only metal is a brass heat set insert in the clamping knobs.
I’ll have to read more on the Microjig. I did forget to mention that I do pre-drill before I screw parts down for the exact reason you stated about the little mole hills screws can make in the spoil board.
The Microjig system is an alternative to T-track. It uses a dovetail bit to cut grooves into the spoil board (or whatever jug you’re building for table saws etc). There are a variety of fixtures that have a compatible piece that allows the component (clamp, stop block, etc) to slide in the groove. The part that goes into the groove is pulled up and locks against the sides and top of the groove.
For spoil board use, there are little dovetail pieces that match the groove profile and have a hole for a bolt or a threaded insert. A knob with a corresponding threaded insert lets you screw it down to hold a clamp in place. There are lots of 3D files on the 3D file sharing sites you can download and print or you can buy the dovetails and knobs on Amazon.
The standard implementation uses steel bolts but for our clamping needs nylon bolts work fine and won’t damage a bit if you hit them. You can use a standard dovetail bit to cut the grooves but Matchfit offers a special one where the shoulders are rounded a touch which makes things slide a little easier. It’s not critical but is a nice touch.
OF has a spoil board design file available on Youtube that gives you all the info (& even the files) you need to cut your own grooves. No expensive T-track needed. Also the clamping force is along the entire surface of the dovetail so you’re less likely to pull through unlike T-track which is usually held in place with small screws. I’ve had T-track pull out of my base material for other applications but longer screws are generally larger diameter which requires drilling and countersinking new holes which is also a PITA. And not all T-track uses the same size slot bolts and nuts.
) So I need something a bit smaller. The Apprentice is a little smaller than I’d like, but it would fit my space. However I don’t see a QCW option for that one.
