Thank you @Geige I just did a quick simulation in Fusion 360. 1/4" 2 flute spiral up cut end mill Feed rate of 200 ipm, 500 ipm rapid, with a DOC at 0.18"(makes almost exactly 4 even passes) I am getting a machine time of around 12 minutes on this setup which would be perfectly acceptable. Just need something better than the 2 hours it takes on my old machine. This information was very useful.
Out of curiosity have you cut 18mm plywood on your machine? If so what specs did you use?
Yes, plenty of plywood cuts. I don’t need speed, so my max would be 2mm depth at 5 m/min with a 1/4 inch endmill, although 10 m/min would be fine at that depth too.
I have the QCW with the folding stand, and that starts shaking, I have to tone down my acceleration and speeds.
You should definitely build a sturdy table.
Thank you @Geige I would plan on a Torsion box top at least 4" thick for the machine to sit on. That would be bolted down to a welded steel frame. I’m also planning on building a vacuum table into the torsion box top. I will add weight to the base as needed to reduce vibration. It will be rock solid. I just can’t see a folding stand being suitable for a CNC router.
Your lucky day: CNC Router Tools - 101 - Intro into Advanced Cabinetmaking (Feeds and Speeds Included)
They are using a Shopsabre 4899 (4x8) it spins an ISO 30 tool holder, I can’t tell the HP rating of the spindle, my guess is it is a 5 or 10 HP. I don’t know of anyone using more than 3HP on a 1F.
You don’t get much cutting there but at timestamp13:10 of this one you see some:
at 13:22 you get a nice view of what looks to be a full slot cut out. Notice the tear out, that is a bit much for me. But hey, it may sand right out.
If you were to share your findings, that would be outstanding!
You mention a compression bit. By definition you have a down then up cut area on the bit. If your first pass depth exceeds the down cut portion then the top surface see ONLY the upcut bit… and you will see more tear out.
I think you have this backwards. On a 1/4" compression bit the upcut is roughly the first .125" - .25" of the bit length so it clears the chips away from the bottom and leaves a smooth cut. The downcut portion is typically the remaining length of the bit, and that’s the portion you want in contact with the workpiece surface. So your advice of bad results from using too deep of a cut should be from using too shallow of a cut.
Hey all,
I agree. But it is difficult to avoid a too shallow cut if you need to ramp down first. The edges in this part should have more tear-outs with plywood.
Absolutely right, I got turned around… it can happen sometimes