CNC table update

I actually just ordered the QCW frame and leveling feet to keep everything nice and squared up.

Ok I just added 1-1/4” screws every 6”.

Hey Auntjemimma,

your table top looks nice now. Will you flip it so screws heads are on underside?

I don’t know how even your workshop’s floor is but in most cases when using a table with feet directly connected to the table top, the table top will twist according to floor irregularities, and change if you move it around. The QCW frame itself is not really stiffy enough to prevent such twisting by itself, but with the leveling feet you can always make sure all feet of the Onefinity machine are coplanar before starting a program. See fishing line method for ensuring this.

My garage is pretty planar but it was built with about a 3 degree slope so ill definitely have to level the feet just because of that.

1 Like

Yes I will be flipping the top over, these are the leveling feet I purchased.


Hey Auntjemimma,

do you intend to use these leveling feet for leveling the table top, or the table’s feet?

Did you order a QCW Frame without ordering the Any Surface Leveling System with it? I would in any case use it, not forcibly because of the leveling feet themselves, but because it’s only with the Leveling System that you get the inserts with the threads that fit into QCW frame tubes and you need them to be able to attach the QCW frame to a table:

The tables feet, I did purchase the Onefinity leveling feet for the QCW as well. Do you guys recommend not attaching the table top to the legs?

1 Like

Hey Auntjemimma,

then you do without the retractable workbench caster kit? Or with both together?

They seem to be ubiquitary since a few years, have bought a kit too but not used it yet. They are rated with 80 kg per piece here. Your table is already heavy, with the double plywood table top, I assume?

that’s good.

I agree to what Paul said, that I would not screw the table top down to the base but use a way to make it free floating. One possibility would be to add a wooden lattice as Atroz suggested here on the underside of table top with a lower ending that fits into a frame on the base that that serves as border for it. Difficult to imagine I know, will try to show a picture later. (got to do a few other things before replying again)

1 Like

I will leave the casters, there’s enough room for the leveling feet to be adjusted flush with the bottom of the legs so they won’t drag in case I need to move the table. Each leveling foot supports 330lbs so with all 6 they can support up to 1980 lbs.

I can 3d print some attachments that would keep it square without screwing it into the legs.

Do you have any pictures of your wood lattice?

It looks to me that this would be a great alternative to a torsion box if you could find it in smaller quantities.

Package Warehouse 48" x 96" x 2" Honeycomb Sheets Package Warehouse

Not sure I took any. It’s nothing special. It’s just 1/2" plywood, 3" wide with half-lap joints. I think they made squares of about 8".

Interesting idea, basically the same as what’s in a hollow core door. The catch here is the clamping. With real wood you can screw to it to hold it while the glue dries.

1 Like

Would cardboard even need to be glued? I’m thinking I could just encase it with the wood.

Then you’d have nothing preventing the skins from lifting/warping. The whole thing would be much more prone to sag. The strength of a torsion box comes from the connection of the two skins through the lattice that prevents twisting/warping, etc.


Can lay it flat and plop every heavy item you can find on it too. That’s what I did with mine and I haven’t noticed any issues. I am using the QCW on top of it though so that plays into things a bit.

A bit late on this reply, but I used 6 x 40 lb. bags of water softener salt (still in the bag), about 1/2 gallon of Titebond glue and a dozen or so screws. And DO keep track of the screws so you don’t forget to take one out and wreck a decent 1/4" bit :slight_smile:

1 Like

Has your top remained flat Mike?

1 Like

I believe so, Ken. I did not do a torsion box, just two layers of 3/4" plywood. I did mount a pair of 2x4s parallel with the short metal rails using the provided holes about 12" off center, which puts them at about the 1/3 and 2/3 marks. I notched and planed the 2x4s flush with the metal rails. I really should get a good straight edge to verify it’s still flat, but everything is performing like it should as long as I avoid the damn screws :slight_smile: