If you want to really cut down on the machining time, you could remove the bulk of the material with a roughing bit such as this one.
A larger finishing bit could also help. If you’re using a trim router you’ll be power-limited, but I’d expect a 1/2" round nose bit, or even larger if you’re just taking light finishing cuts, to work fine. Whiteside, for one, has a big selection of round nose (aka core box) bits. A larger bit radius should provide a smoother finish in fewer passes.
From your rendering, it doesn’t appear that your pockets have flat bottoms. But if they do, you could use a bowl bit instead of a round-nose bit.
You did not say what your speeds and feeds are at the present.
I used to cut things at around 70ipm for roughing and 100ipm for finishing (1/4" cutter in a router). I invested some time in a feed optimization software and wow - what a difference.
I cut a 3/4 size Eames House Bird out of walnut. 3D adaptive clearing roughing at 471ipm (Whiteside RU2100 – 1/4 inch Upcut Spiral- Solid Carbide) 20000rpm. Step down .233" and step over .1"
Finishing at 200ipm (1/4" ball cutter - actually meant for steel since I didn’t have one for wood available) 20000rpm. Step over .03"
It was a big piece of wood I cut down to make these birds. it would be the equivalent of roughing out a 12" x 12" x 1" deep pocket. It took 30 minutes to rough and 40 minutes to finish. And the cutters were like new after it was done. The sound is definitely different when it cuts that fast which may concern you but it did not bog down the router at all.
So what I learned is with wood I can go alot faster than what I expected.
GWizard by CNC Cookbook
I did not find it easy to learn but once I understood how to use it I find it very powerful.
Their marketing tactics are a little over the top but the software works well. But I had to watch all their training videos and do a lot of reading to understand it all. Just as in real life there are alot of options and variables when milling and this software seems to account for most of them. It is $79 USD for 1 year for unlimited size machine which converts into a lifetime license when the year is done for hobbyists with under 2HP machines.
I am not at all saying it’s the best - just it’s the one I chose to learn.
I nearly always use scallop to finish 3D shapes since the stepover is more consistant that with spiral. For your shapes in the first post I would use scallop to finish. For roughing those kind of pockets 3D Pocket Roughing may be faster that 3D Adaptive Clearing since there is no tight internal slots or islands to work around. But Adaptive does a better job of keeping the cutting load constant - when there are islands and details to work around.
As for the settings it’s probably easier if you look at my F360 file and find what you want.
Here it is. You will have to un zip it and import it into Fusion.
Its a great game. Very simple to play, no luck factor (dice roll etc), and you have to respond to your players moves (that is, it is difficult to look ahead and plan as the board changes). Another game if this ilk (simple to learn but challenging to win ) is Othello/Reversi.
We use pebbles from places that mean something to us, although i have resorted to aquarium stones, but they be garish). I think it is typically played with seeds/nuts.