Machine alignment driving me crazy

Thanks for the detailed response.

I think maybe you’re overworrying about it. I made a sort of beamed base on a Kreg table, not a tortion box but x framing underneath Baltic Birch. It was not as flat as I hoped. But I screwed my MDF down to it and then leveled it and all has been well since. I was lucky that my fishing line test was good, but if it hadn’t been I would have shimmed the feet and moved on.

At some point I might want to redo the whole thing but I’ve also learned a lot in the process of actually using the machine that would contribute to what I would do differently.

My basic advise is do the best with what you have already made and see how it goes.

A for instance: the way I laid out my spoilboard was kinda stupid and annoying, but I wouldn’t have figured that out if I’d started over on the table and not used it.

Anyway everything works pretty well at the moment.

I have had vaguely stupid ideas of covering my benchtop with epoxy and then leveling that and putting the spoilboard on top of it but hopefully I will never do that.

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I am a classically trained overthinker and and overworrier. That’s a bigger issue than my level and coplanar table :slight_smile:

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absolutely me too. but eventually you need to do some work.

this has been helpful to me lately:

I’m making my first guitars in a long time and trying to incorporate a lot of new ideas into them while at the same time figuring out/remembering how to do the basics. I think it’s a good idea: I am making two at once, but the first one I’m just trying to get done as fast as possible, not worry much at all about mistakes or visuals and try to extract as much about the process as I can and then apply that to the 2nd one. The first one is made of cheaper wood, the 2nd one is fairly nice stuff. Actually both are coming out pretty nice but it’s definitely nice to not be worrying excessively about the 1st one. To run you must learn to walk.

Anyway. shim and align your machine, flatten your board, make some stuff and then see if you need to fix it.

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You have to appreciate all the options that OneFinity gives us. My set up is in my garage, and I needed a solution that allows me to break it down and move it out of the way if I need to do something else in the garage (like putting up hurricane shutters!). The rolling folding stand with the QCW was as perfect as it comes, and I think only OF had that option when I ordered. I assembled my entire system in less than an hour. To me, that was worth every penny.

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just beware that the qcw frame has an off center work area. there will be 9 inches of waste board in the back you cant reach to machine and 0 inches in the front. this causes clamping issues using the t tracks. its a design flaw. I found out the hard way I didnt recognize this when I purchsed my qcw frame. nice frame but has issues. when you surface the waste board you cant tile your projects unless you use another piece of mdf etc to raise the work piece up or it will not lay flat due to the 9 inches of waste board that is in the rear of the qcw frame that will be raised higher than the surfaced work area of the spoil board. I think the frame is a great option other than these issues i have ran into using mine.
Im gonna machine some new aluminum blocks to offset my rails 4.5 inches to get full use of the t tracks and work surface area. still will have to use an extra piece of mdf under my material to tile projects. or there will be a gap under the material. best i can explain it without use of photos
The monting locations of the y rails needs offset approx 4.5 inches to the rear to center spindle to the work area of the qcw frame.
before I threw away the table you made id shim under my rail mounts or something to get the same affect.

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It’s not a flaw, it’s a user option. Some people want that raised area for more usable table. Some don’t as they may tile and do not want the raised lip. If not, simply cut your mdf at the raised transition :stuck_out_tongue: The choice is the users to best decide how they’d like to use the machine.

how can i use the t trak clamps in the front if my material is say 32 inches square? i cant use none in the front only the rear.

i guess i could repostion my mdf and buy some t track and install the t track under the spoilboard after movie it more to the front but it wont be supported by the frame.

Not messing around this time. Level and coplanar platform to build the new torsion box on. I cancelled the QCW order and accepted the challenge of the torsion box LOL.


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Whoa!! Laser level! We’re getting serious now.:grin:

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@terry156 Don’t forget to check for level in an X across the middle. It’s possible to have all four sides level with each other and have a bow in the center. Very disconcerting. One of many lessons learned the hard way.:roll_eyes:

I will double check that too. Hard to see in the picture but have fishing line across the diagonals for coplanar check. Pretty sure I slipped the same size space block raising the lines under with no deflection. Will repeat to be sure.