I am a classically trained overthinker and and overworrier. That’s a bigger issue than my level and coplanar table 
2 Likes
You have to appreciate all the options that OneFinity gives us. My set up is in my garage, and I needed a solution that allows me to break it down and move it out of the way if I need to do something else in the garage (like putting up hurricane shutters!). The rolling folding stand with the QCW was as perfect as it comes, and I think only OF had that option when I ordered. I assembled my entire system in less than an hour. To me, that was worth every penny.
2 Likes
just beware that the qcw frame has an off center work area. there will be 9 inches of waste board in the back you cant reach to machine and 0 inches in the front. this causes clamping issues using the t tracks. its a design flaw. I found out the hard way I didnt recognize this when I purchsed my qcw frame. nice frame but has issues. when you surface the waste board you cant tile your projects unless you use another piece of mdf etc to raise the work piece up or it will not lay flat due to the 9 inches of waste board that is in the rear of the qcw frame that will be raised higher than the surfaced work area of the spoil board. I think the frame is a great option other than these issues i have ran into using mine.
Im gonna machine some new aluminum blocks to offset my rails 4.5 inches to get full use of the t tracks and work surface area. still will have to use an extra piece of mdf under my material to tile projects. or there will be a gap under the material. best i can explain it without use of photos
The monting locations of the y rails needs offset approx 4.5 inches to the rear to center spindle to the work area of the qcw frame.
before I threw away the table you made id shim under my rail mounts or something to get the same affect.
3 Likes
It’s not a flaw, it’s a user option. Some people want that raised area for more usable table. Some don’t as they may tile and do not want the raised lip. If not, simply cut your mdf at the raised transition 
The choice is the users to best decide how they’d like to use the machine.
2 Likes
how can i use the t trak clamps in the front if my material is say 32 inches square? i cant use none in the front only the rear.
i guess i could repostion my mdf and buy some t track and install the t track under the spoilboard after movie it more to the front but it wont be supported by the frame.
Not messing around this time. Level and coplanar platform to build the new torsion box on. I cancelled the QCW order and accepted the challenge of the torsion box LOL.
3 Likes
Whoa!! Laser level! We’re getting serious now.
1 Like
@terry156 Don’t forget to check for level in an X across the middle. It’s possible to have all four sides level with each other and have a bow in the center. Very disconcerting. One of many lessons learned the hard way.
I will double check that too. Hard to see in the picture but have fishing line across the diagonals for coplanar check. Pretty sure I slipped the same size space block raising the lines under with no deflection. Will repeat to be sure.
1 Like
That hump in the center will surface out or id think it should if all corners are same height and level to one another. looks good. when you get it assembled lmk know please. id like to see an indicator mounted to the spindle or just the z axis plate and you lay your arm hand on the table to see how much deflection is in the torsion box and then when you lay your arm on the gantry. mine gives more than i would had thought it would. i was having issues with repeating my tram reading and found it was me laying my hand on the machine bed or the 50mmm rails to steady myself as i rotated the tram arm. they arent as rigid as they appear to be.
i was shocked but when i cut any hard woods or cut hard on soft woods you can hear the chatter
im thinking concrete and self level compound and then lay my mdf down and surface to help on the lower side (macine bed) but the 50mm tubes that cant be changed easily. But if i can reduce half the deflection im still better off than where im at today with it. so far douglas fir pine cuts best with no audible chattering lol about 100ipm doc bit diameter even with high quality tooling such as idc woodcraft bits whiteside amana etc.
then cut some 5 inch dia circles and squares and check how true they are 360 degrees around the plug or square and also parralel top to bottom surfaces. best i can get parralel on my material over 32 inch area is .006 but the indicator shows less than .003 for the entire work area. things are deflecting and to cut hard materials thats not optimal. what will happen is when you hit harder and softer areas of the grain the machine and bed and 50mm tubes will defelct more or less causing parralel/flatness issues it appears and only makes common sense when you take everything into account im sure im missing some things as well but from my research this what makes sense to me. im shooting for the best i can get and working thru the issues best i can without it becoming just a money pit and throwing way more into a hobby machine than if id just bought a production industrial model.
its gonna be close except for the quality that can be produced. i guess for foam plastic and softer woods you probably wont notice but im kinda a perfectionist when i do stuff as this. 30 plus yrs working in a high precision field and problem solving machine and part issues for the automobile industry its just natural now lol some times it sucks lol but the end result is so rewarding when it all comes together and everything is prestine
just a wanted to offer my experinces so you dont have surprises arise and go wtw how is this lol good luck i think you made a good choice building the torsion box. its gotta be more more rigid than this aluminum qcw frame. unless its made from 1xs lol
i thought when i done my research and purchase i was really getting something. well i did… lol
something ive yet to see comparisons of is a woodshop with regular wood working tools make the same jewlery box as a cnc router and see which comes out with best miters fit etc… to me a cnc router should win but personal experiences and i what i see in videos the forums etc I have to say im not sure now lol
have fun with your build.
get you an indicator and tram arm and a magnetic base for the indicator. go to harbor freight they are good enough for this and wont cost you more than a good bit would. a good carpenter level is ot accurate enough. maybe a machinist level but indicator and base is the best option for finding your root cuase of the issue. also consider wood has soft and hard areas in the grain that will make the machine and torsion box deflect more
when you get the indicator and base set it to zero from wasteboard to top of the feet for the rails in each corner this will help you verify all corners are equal height same as the piano wire fishing strng method. once you are confident all is as close as you can get it surface the spoilboard flat andcheck tram in all 4 corners as well as in the middle and adjust as per instruction given here in the forum no shims! use the bolt hle clearances in the z axis mounting plate to adjust left to right tram and use the adjustment screws on the 50mm rails to adjust front to back tram. resurface spoillboard recheck tram and adjust if needed. then surface again now you are ready to test cut for trueness. circles to be cirlces not ovals and squares to be square and on size. this will tell you if your macxhine is truly square
this procedure worked great for me and didnt take but a few hrs to complete.
my tram was .030 out of the box front to back and side left to right was decent but I was able to get the tram within .003 over the entire area of the machines work area
the screws for the front to back tram are very touchy make sure you leave the tram arm and indicator set up when you start to turn these adjustment screws and make veryt very small turns of the screws one at a time and the same amount while observing the indicators reading
as you do this it will be easier to understand and you will be adjusting it as accurate;y as possible with minimal spent on precision tools to do the work with
I think i paid 12 bucks for the indicator and i had the base already but they are not a high dollar item but more accurate than a carpenters level and framing squares
you can get there jusst take god notes as go mp everything out on paer and i even used a pencil and wrote my readings down in each loaction on my spoilboard so all my focus stayed at the machine. its easy to get lost and always double and triple check readings until they repeat and youll get the best tram and flatness possible
goood luck if i was close id come show you and help you do it. its not as difficult as it seems
they have levelers that goes into the bottom corners of the qcw frame or you can go to the hardware and buy 4 bolts and nuts to jam the bolts once level
I noticed that issue about the 9” waste on the wasteboard. Would it work to cut the wasteboard panels 9” short?
Yep. That’s what I do. Just made my slats 32” long.
1 Like
Would you add this explanation to the user manual ‘How to cut the wasteboard’ section? This way, we can choose before we cut and install? It would save a lot of time / frustration for new CNC users. Thanks for considering it.
2 Likes