Masso G3 ATC build update - tool rack cover, manual oiler, and warm up program

It has been a long and enjoyable build, and I am finished and ready to start test cuts with my new ATC set-up.

Since my last update I have been busy finishing a number of tasks.

I have fully completed and tested all the safety circuits and sensors which work with the spindle, VFD, pneumatics, cooling, etc., and happily all are working as expected. Help from the Masso forums, Clough42 (YouTube) , and Joseph Abenhaim (FB) was greatly appreciated

I designed, printed, and built spring loaded ISO toolholders that have been working very well for the auto tool changes.



I wanted a way to protect the tool rack, and after a lot of designing and trial and error, came up with one that seems to work quite well - although there are tradeoffs. A sensor triggers an air cylinder when the Y axis block enters the ATC area, which pushes the cover away - the opposite happens after the tool change is complete. I found a supplier of commercial strip brushes, and added that at the bottom to keep out chips and sweep them away.

I wanted to add a way to make oiling easier, so I purchased a manual oiler, and along with some compact M6 push connect elbows and 4 mm OD tubing, put together an oiling system. I kept the tube lengths and fitting locations equal to make sure the ball screw nuts receive a similar amount of oil with each pull of the handle. Because the Z ball nut is inaccessible, I designed and printed a tube holder that clips to one of the linear bearings, and dispenses oil out the tube right on the screw above the nut. The linear rails I just add oil to during the warm-up program.


I had always wanted to create a warm up routine for my CNC and spindle, and thought now is a good time. Besides wanting to teach myself more about g code, the warm up routine will also serve to disperse the newly added oil, warm up the bearings, and let me listen for and catch any mechanical issues. The program I settled on starts with two full diagonal moves and a Z axis up/down move to fully distribute the oil, followed by a series of perimeter runs around the ATC/non ATC areas at increasing speeds. During all these moves the Z axis is moving up and down. I just finished testing the oiler and the warm-up program and all worked as expected. I now plan to edit it to include a spindle warm-up as well, so all will happen at once maximizing the time.

Below is the g code for those interested. My program uses a G59 work offset zero position which is +1cm X/Y from machine zero, just to give a little ‘buffer’ around the perimeter during travel.

(CNC warm up routine - no spindle RUN/RPM)

G59 G17 G21 G90 G94

G00 X0 Y0 Z-10

(manual oil pump - pump lever once)

G01 Y705 X725 Z-63 F2250

(manual oil pump - pump lever once)

Y0 X0 Z-10

(cycle 1 - ATC zone - higher spindle)

Y705 Z-63 F2000

X725 Z-10

Y0 Z-63

X0 Z-10

(cycle 2 - ATC zone - higher spindle)

Y705 Z-63 F2250

X725 Z-10

Y0 Z-63

X0 Z-10

(cycle 3 - safe cutting zone - lower spindle)

Y605 Z-135 F2500

X725 Z-10

Y0 Z-135

X0 Z-10

(cycle 4 - safe cutting zone - lower spindle)

Y605 Z-135 F3000

X725 Z-10

Y0 Z-135

X0 Z-10

M30

On a final note, I revisited tramming … just because. I used the tramming gauge I had purchased to adjust the tilt (side to side) and nod (front to back) orientation of the spindle. Happily I was able to get both to less than +/- 0.0005", which is the smallest increment of the instrument version I purchased. Two things of note 1) the tramming bolts on the X50 tubes when all four were used changed the nod by eight to nine 0.0005" increments, and 2) I found the adjustment of the tilt challenging, so I designed and printed two ‘tramming blocks’ to help position the Z assembly. They are held on the assembly using two M6 screws, and use a M8 screw to adjust the tilt by pushing against the Z axis block. I loosened all M4 screws but the top left (it functioned as a pivot point), then adjusted the M8 screws until I was happy with the tramming. The blocks worked very well to secure the Z assembly while I retightened the M4 screws.



In my next update I plan to share the ATC in action, as well as an evaluation of the performance of the build, particularly how it mills aluminum. (But because I am a novice, and a little nervous of crashes, I purchased a block of machinable wax to practice on :smiley:)

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WOW!! You did a great job! Very impressive craftsman ship and ingenuity. And really awesome that you chose to share with the community. Awesome work!

Thank you for the positive feedback. It is my retirement hobby, and one I plan to continue with to keep my brain active. Still much to learn which is exciting.

I enjoy sharing updates as I very much like to see other people’s builds as well - it has been the best way for me to learn over the last year and a half.

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Hey Tom,

You’ve made quite the machine!

Curious about the oiling system. Assume you found some type of recoil hose for the main runs? Would be awesome if you could share parts sourcing for that? It’s something I’d like to incorporate into my machine.

Cheers

Thank you for your interest.

I didn’t use any special hose for a main line, just 4 mm OD tube and a manual pump oiler. Both from Amazon I believe. The oiler has two output ports, so I just made the lengths equal to try and keep the oiling consistent. I believe at the time the wait for M6 x 4 mm OD elbow fittings was too long, so I sourced them from Mettle Air, but I think they are on Amazon now and readily available.

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So you’re just running the tubing throw a drag chain then? I think I was over complicating this in my mind. :rofl:

Yes, through drag chains. I invested in a fairly large capacity drag chain from Igus, and also got the cable spacers/separators as well. It was well worth the cost, as I had a lot to run in them, and happily (luckily?) found room for everything. I am glad I went with, what I thought at the time was, a larger than needed size.

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Hey Mike @BNB187, hey Tom, hey all,

sure, with 100 mm drag chain width you begin to be on the safe side :slight_smile: Such a spindle like Jianken JGL-80/2.2R24-20 ATC or Mechatron ATC-8022-42-HSK25 alone has thick three-phase motor power cable, spindle control cable, sealing air tube, ATC control air tube, two spindle coolant lines, temperature sensor cable… And add stepper motor cables, homing sensor cables, oil lines, spindle LED ring, possibly also workpiece air coolant and the workpiece minimal lubrication tube… I’m sure I forgot some :slight_smile:.

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Yes, I do have more than listed :rofl:

I think I’ve got everything sorted out, going to try a cheap Amazon auto oiler with adjustable distribution manifold. Just have to figure out a drag chain for the right side of the machine or may carry it across the X gantry if I can fit 2 oil lines in the factory chain, which I’m doubting. May have to print some clips similar to Rowdy Romans to carry them.

What are you using for oil? Don’t think that 3-in-1 is a great option when I need a liter to fill the tank. :rofl::rofl::rofl:. Wondering if sewing machine oil would be a good choice it’s got a similar viscosity to 3-in-1 or perhaps #1 Way oil?

To save a bit of space and tubing I used the 4 mm OD, and ran one single line (from each side of my oiler) as far as I could, then added a Y closer to the ball screw nuts. One line/Y pair feeds the Y/B axis, the other the X/Z axes.

I removed the stock motor cables that run through the tubes when I first got my machine as I went with my own motors and cabling. This allowed me to use the hollow tube to run the motor cable - and oiler hose - through the X axis to the drag chain at the other side. I think there is enough room in the stock plastic motor cable plugs to drill a small hole - if you are also using a small OD hose. The challenge is getting the hose through, as Onefinity does not make it easy/possible to remove these cable tube plugs once the machine is assembled.

For oil I just purchased a few larger bottles of 3 in 1 oil from Amazon.

Please share your finished work.

Yes it’s not an easy job once the machines together. I had to replace a stepper on my old machine and pulled all the wires out of the tubes at that point.

Wondering if you could post a pic of what you did for the Z oiler? It’s too bad there really is no way to get a fitting to the port that’s for certain, very tight.

I’ve printed some new mounts for the X drag chain to move it back about an inch to make some room there. And have spun the ball nuts on the Y’s so the drag chain doesn’t interfere.

I will look for my F360 file. I made a clip that held the 4 mm OD tube at the top of the ball screw and just touching it. When the oiler is pumped the oil drips onto the ball screw and runs down.

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That would be awesome… I’m not against designing my own piece as well, just curious to see where you ran the tube in and what you secured the printed part to.

Toronto,
How did you mount the Masso Touch screen?
Pat

Sorry for the delay - am in Ottawa moving my Mom to a new residence.

There are certain files I have lost over time due to random PC crashes, and I think the oil hose clip for the Z axis is one. I did find the STL file I sent to the 3D printer, and a picture of it installed.

It clips to the top of one of the Z axis linear bearings, and has a hollow arm that the tube goes into. It is adjusted by how far the hose sticks out and by rotating the clip on the bearing. The tube works by just touching the ball screw, where the oil drips onto the screw once adjusted. It is not an elegant solution, and one I had planned to revisit at some point.


It is a 3rd party touch monitor. I mounted it to an arm I found on Amazon - a clone/copy of a good quality one - but it is sturdy and works well. The base bolts to an 8040 extrusion which is one leg of my table.

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For some reason I thought you had the G3 Touch, anyway thanks for the response, I imagine this would work for the Touch model anyway.
Thanks, Pat

Happy to share. It should work as both I believe have the correct hole pattern.

Ok thanks Tom… I’m having a problem figuring out the push connect elbows to go into the oil ports as well. I purchased what I thought what work from Amazon. It seems as if the threaded portion isn’t long enough to engage the ball nut. Any help would be appreciated. Link below to what I ordered.