I have an Elite Foreman coming and I am looking to build a control panel with some buttons tied to inputs on the Masso for Home, Park ect. Does anyone have a simple diagram to the wiring of a switch for one of the inputs? I see in some places that resistors are needed in line between the switch and the input on the Masso. The Masso site shows wiring in pullup resistors but it also states it has switches for built in pullup resistors.
Masso also shows a diagram on their list of programmable inputs which shows directly from +ve to the switch to the input.
I only ordered my machine last night but have been reading and researching then for months so take this with an appropriate measure of salt, but…
The install and setup for the EZ button attachment may be of help to you. There are also a few good videos out there of users installing theirs.
From what I saw I feel like i could print, assemble, and set up hard buttons from scratch myself.
Ive watched that before and I guess my question is why does the eZ button which is a known good product use a resistor when Masso and Onefinity both have documentation showing no resistor?
I tried drawing out what I believe is the eZ wiring compared to a snip from Masso’s website and a snip from Onefinity support on testing an input just for clarification about what is the right way to go about making my own button setup.
In the Masso diagram (top), the input is normally low, and will go high when the switch is closed.
In the middle diagram, the input is normally high, and will go low when the switch is closed. The 5.6k resistor is a current-limiting resistor. Without it, the switch would short-circuit the power supply to ground when closed (which should either blow a fuse or cause the power supply to “fold back” to a very low output voltage).
Either circuit will work, and you can invert the inputs from the Masso setup screen if necessary.
The best design practice is to choose is to choose the electrical signal polarity that is most fail-safe. The most likely failure modes are:
A short circuit from the signal wire to ground. In this case, either circuit will cause the input to go low.
A broken signal wire. In this case, the input will go low on the top circuit, but will go high on the bottom circuit.
So ideally, you should choose the circuit such that the action resulting from these failure modes is the safer of the two possibilities. This depends entirely on what you are using the input for.
Thank you, that helps a lot. I think the normally low options would work better for my applications and makes it simpler to wire as I don’t have to worry about the resistor.
Thanks for posting this. It helped me figure out mine as well. I could not figure out why there was a resistor! After reading your post it all makes sense!
Just now getting around to workong on this, my Elite arrived a week ago and I can finally all the the stuff like this that I could only theorize about until getting it.
The resistor only on “pull to low” signal lines makes sense. As all I want buttons for is simple functions like rewind and parking, I think I can safely omit them. I’ll post whatever DIY setup I end up creating once done.
I completed my switch panel several weeks ago.
For a week or so, I had the wiring done with just a simple circuit with no pull-up / pull-down resistor. It functioned fine without issues.
After reading more into it, and speaking with some electrical professionals, I have learned one of the primary purposes of the resistor is to convert a noisy signal into a very true on or off signal. Without it, Masso might experience blips of on/off signals while it’s just sitting there.
I think the Masso has some logic to only register a signal press when it’s for a predefined period. The signal must be present for more than 10ms, for example.
I rewired mine and used pull up resistors. Not entirely sure if it was needed, but it seems to be the industry standard to do it this way.
I put great effort into the wiring harness, to keep it clean and tidy in the Masso enclosure. This new one is my third harness iteration, this one supports the LED lights working on the switches.
I had gathered from what I read also that the resistor is acting as what audio guys would call a “low-pass filter”. In other words, it has to clear a certain threshold to even register or it counts as a 0. Like you said, this keeps smaller unintentional signals from making it forward to the controller/amp/display/whatever.
So I suppose if I am going to go to the trouble of doing it, do it best.
Your wire harness looks great. I guess I need to get some of those sockets for the switches. I was about to just wire direct to their little lugs. This is way better.
Time to start another amazon list…
Edited to add:
I really like how you made your enclosure, with the box 3d printed but the panel (I assume) routed and engraved. Only makes sense if you already have the machine, and the panel is so much neater that way.
I’d be interested in an stl file of that box.
It is possible to wire it to the terminal. It would save a little $$ on the project.
For me, I wanted to re-use the Pwncnc MTC button, which has own 19mm pushbutton switch. The rest of the switches are also 19mm switches, which is the diameter of the hole you need to drill to install the switch.
All the parts are cut on the Onefinity! Most of it HDPE, and some engraving material for the lettering.
In the back of my mind I have been mulling over if I should release this product on my Etsy page. As much as I want to send out files, I also don’t want to give away the secret sauce recipe. Haha.
I’m at a dilemma, the wiring harness is by far the most time consuming part of the build and is the single biggest contributor to the overall price I would need to offer it at.
I’m considering offering
the complete solution, enclosure, harness, switches, engravable panel, everything fully assembled for a quick 15minute install.
All the parts unassembled, and the user needs to do the assembly AND wiring/soldering, with some solid instructions. Probably a 3-hour project.
Just the enclosure, and the user needs to source and assemble 100% of the electrical.
Maybe just sell the STEP/STL files.
Price point would vary a lot for each option, as labor costs are just so hard to get around.
Would love input from the community to help decide which options to offer!
I ended up designing and wiring up a custom macro pad so I could have all the keyboard short cuts not just the input options. Works really well so far for my needs and I have it on an 8ft cable so I can walk around the machine holding it similar to an MPG.
