Hi everyone. One thing that has bothered me since getting the Gen2 is the spacing of the T-Track on the QCW frame. I personally would rather have a single flat surface for a deck/spoil board. Unfortunately, the factory suggested spacing for the t track is too wide on either end to mount a single piece of MDF to the T-Track without having the spoil board unsupported on both ends.
I had a chance to fix the problem when I was setting up the machine since it was all torn apart for our move, but being a numbskull, I didn’t think to do it until the machine was all put back together. There is no easy way as far as I can tell to remove the QCW Cross members to easily be able to flip them around so that the t-track on the two end cross members are closer together towards the center. Frustrated and feeling like I was not going to be able to easily do what I wanted to do. I started to feel like I was just going to have to cut the slats and screw in the 10,000 little screws from the bottom as instructed by onefinity. However, I came up with this solution for the few people out there like me who would rather just be able to use the t-track to lay a piece of MDF across the entire surface and bolt the the spoil board to the t-track. I don’t think it will significantly impact the strength or flexibility of the frame whatsoever in practice, but if anyone has any suggestions or input, I’m always open to healthy discussion on the forum.
So instead of removing the cross members, I simply took the screws out loosened some of the other screws in the other cross members and was able to slide the two end ones in and secured them using just a single screw which should be fine. Hard to explain the concept but hopefully the pictures will explain it better than I can.
My thoughts on this idea would be to leave the MDF in between the slots and use the T-Track to mount the full sheet of MDF on top of it. put a counter bore for the head of the screws so they will be below the top surface by an 1/8 inch or so. Put the screws in the front & back in the t-slots and a few more down the sides or just use wood screws with a counter bore into the MDF mounted in between the slots from the top. so when it is time to replace spoil board it would make it easy to change out. You are loosing 3/4 inch of travel in the “Z” axis but I don’t think it will be a problem.
I built my table and did not use the QCW. I put a series of holes in the MDF and use the wedge method to hold my projects. I make small fixtures out of MDF to hold stuff with clamps
Cheers
Joe
Thanks for the ideas and visual. I think for the most part we are thinking along the same lines, I just am not going to put down the MDF on either side of the t track and just lay the soild MDF over the top and use the t track to hold down the spoil board. I may use 2 layers of 3/4 to give a little more meat for dog holes and maybe some threaded inserts. ![]()
I got impatient after the first round and the two rows on either side were off enough to throw the whole mounting ordeal off. You can see in the picture the remnants of my mounting holes. I took the circular saw to it and gave up. Now for climbing my fat but under the table and screwing the boards in from underneath.






