Onefinity ~Aspire and etch

When you use a drag bit on the Onefinity and create the file in Aspire
Etched Image
IMG_1485

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Wayne, I’ve got a bunch of questions for you about this project but first let me say how cool it is! Was it necessary to use Aspire ( couldn’t it have been done on Vectric Pro ?). I once did a 4’ x 8’ edge lit map of Canada on a sheet of 1/2" acrylic using an 1/8" bit in a handheld router. I’ve been contemplating doing another large project in a similar vein it was wondering if it could be done with a drag bit like yours or if given the size, I should just go with an 1/8" bit again.

No you do not have to use Aspire you can use V Carve Pro if that is the software you have . Yes you can use a Diamond Spring Loaded drag bit. If you have something really large you will need to tile the project in the Y axis, which is not to bad to do. You will need to allow maybe a 1/4" overlay between tiles. Just keep in mind the time factor. The one train I posted took 8hours and 15 minutes. Also your Onefinity BB or Maso controller will need a lot of memory. The train I posted had 133,073 lines of data.

The problem with cutting bits is you can melt the plastic or gum up the bit.

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Thanks, two more questions. What drag bit did you use ? And I read somewhere that a problem with etching on thick acrylic was the image reflecting on the opposite surface giving a double image. Was that a problem for you?

No problem with double image. Never heard of or ever seen. Now when you etch you do want to etch in reverse what I mean is when you’re done the smooth side is out not the etch side. When you add the light to it optically it looks better.

I will mention this there are several drag bits out there. I would suggest using the 120 degree version. The 60 and 90 degree cut to deep or are to aggressive and you can break them. They have their place but the 120 is a good choice for most acrylic jobs.
I have 2 drag bits, I have the RDZ 120 spring loaded drag bit ($50) and the Carbide 3D Etcher ($40) they both do a great job. Your acrylic needs to be good quality not cheap stuff. Your settings are important . I have attached the setup for your review. Also perform a test on a smaller piece of material to make sure it will give you what you are looking for. If you have any other questions let me know.

(attachments)

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Very nice work - the creativity is also incredible!

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Wayne, thank you so much for this. My usual work method is to throw myself into a project and work things out as I go. 50 + years of experience has taught me how to fix whatever mess that gets me into. However, with a sheet of 1/2" acrylic going for in excess of $1,000 and this project being for my wife’s business, messing this up would not just entail a financial hit.

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Very Nice! I am curious, how are the LED lights mounted (are they in the metalic posts?)
This looks amazing!

Yes There is a LED disc on each stand off.


313](upload://rD45UOy3jIoGlBXoztWTIufdcaC.jpeg)
I am attaching a sketch that shows how they look.

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Wow ! Thank you Wayne! I am new to this forum. I just ordered an Elite Forman,(Oct 7th) & this last year I was able to acquire a large Kern CO2 laser table, & a Shaper Origen, but I knew I needed something more substantial. I have been making and selling a small windshield for a motorcycle for several years now (It’s a super small niche biz, by word of mouth only). I thermo-form cast acrylics a lot and want to use the cutoff waste material for creative projects. I am impressed with the look of your project and appreciate the thought that went into it. I hate to throw cast acrylic pieces away. Your project is really great and clean example.
On a side note: I have found extruded acrylics to be dimensionally unpredictable (When thermo-forming). The Cast is the way to go, and there some acrylics that have a UV fluorescing additive in the pigment, they look fantastic when exposed to sunlight or a UV LED light. I call it Neon Edge Glow when I make my products out of it. It has been scarce sense COV-19. but it is pretty amazing stuff!
I perceive that you are using Fusion Software. I am only familiar with Kerns software and Inkscape for SVGs so I have much to learn here. I’m a little nervous about choosing software for my incoming 1F-CNC. I’m going to digress here but Thank You Wayne. Well done, Sir!

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The software I use is Vectric V Carve Pro or Vectric Aspire. I had Fusion but was not happy with it. For CAD work I use Solidworks
The material I use is Cast Acrylic. It allows the light to disperse better then extrusion.
Both Cast or Extrusion have thickness variation. That is another reason why using a spring loaded drag bit works great.
I have the Journeyman X50 which is 48" wide by 32" long. They did not have the large size available when I purchased my unit.
Maker On!

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Thank you for the info Wayne. I was looking into using a diamond drag bit and a drag knife for cutting different laminates etc, and during my research, I can’t find that Carveco (The trial software that 1-F has featured with this incoming unit) supports DRAG KNIFING’s adjusted path algorithms, however Vectric seems to do so. (I’m not sure about this) I’m still snooping around. I love that encouraging quip!! “Maker On!” so much better that “Cut One-f 4 Me!”
Maker On Wayne 70x7!

Be careful when using Drag Knifes on Laminates. Drag Knifes are only good for certain materials and thicknesses. Drag knife and Drag Bits for etching are different animals. In Vectric software you would use the Gadget function for a Drag Knife. See attached. When using a Drag bit for etching Acrylic , Glass, Metals you would use a different command.

(attachments)

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