In the past I’ve had the misfortune to have a few similar crashes where the bit slips in the collet. At first I thought I am not reefing on the wrenches enough but have found that not to be the case at all. For example, last evening the down cut bit slipped again and crashed just as you had experienced. It happened so quickly there wasn’t enough time to e-stop before stalling the Makita!
Upon close examination I found the bit to be fine while the collet is now elongated and a burr raised where the shank wore the softer metal of the collet.
It appears to me that the four segmented design and taper of the collet is a weak point for applying enough force to the shank in some instances. In opposition, a CNC spindle collet, i.e. ER11, has twelve segments and shallower taper thus provides greater compression to hold the tool securely. Obviously a spindle is designed for CNC use where high loads should be expected while the Makita is intended for hand held use. (To be fair, its been pointed out in other posts that employing a router in the 1F design is a price point consideration which allows it to remain the “hobby” level market and I’m complete agreement.)
That analysis alone may be enough for me to consider a spindle should this become an annoying maintenance issue over time. When the new collets arrive I’ll be able to check the Makita for run-out again. If it appears excessive, I may relegate it to use elsewhere in the shop and take the spindle plunge.
I also had this experience where the bit slipping from the collet in the makita even though it was tight. The thing I discovered was that the collet was filling up with dust and not allowing the segments to close. I make sure this is cleaned out by giving it a little tap before putting a new bit in and have not had an issue since.
Ran off the edge of the paper, pen caught the edge coming back broke the workpiece loose from the holders, then bled out when I hit the e-stop. It was a tragic and costly crash. (It’s a joke, you can laugh.) …and this is why I’m still playing mostly with pen and paper.
Nothing worse than finishing 4+ hours of machining, $100+ of epoxy, 2+ hours of sanding, then messing up on the keyhole. Thoughts for fixing - bigger, wider keyhole I guess!
Recessed rectangle with a stamp of your business name/logo on top of it, and make a second attempt at key hole above it? Maybe do second key hole first - just in case (-:
Just cutting some pitchy wood. A soak in pitch cleaner overnight and a little work with an old toothbrush makes it look brand new (except the chipped corners, of course)
I just got my Woodworker set up and was messing around with a quick project I made. I’m fairly proficient in VCarve but still I’m still making my share of mistakes with the actual CAM portion. Here are a few of my oopsies from Sunday afternoon.
The first bat mistake was moving an object in Vcarve and only recalculating 2/3 toolpaths before cutting. That resulted in the profile chamfer and profile cut being in two different areas on the carve.
The second bat mistake was setting my XY zero too far to the right on the work piece. I had plenty of material to avoid cutting off the end of the right wing…I don’t know what I was thinking when I set the XY zero.
Also, the Oramask on both pieces of painted MDF took some of the black paint with it when I peeled it off. Most likely because I was just testing things out and didn’t let the paint dry long enough (only about an hour from paint to Oramask). I think it gave the better of the two bats a cool look though.
I was cutting a dust relief on the bottom of some fixtures. My X was a little off and did not cut the left side. I thought, “jog right a mm, reset zero, cut.” Totally forgot that I have Fusion moving to a set location to make bit changes easy that just happens to be kinda close to this work piece.
Carbide v stainless steel would not have been a pretty. Fortunately I’ve made a habit of dropping my hand to the e-stop whenever I start a cut. at 300ipm, clearly I did not leave much room for reaction time.
It is not the diameter of the dog hole it is the depth of the 3/4” hole
Mine are only 3/4” deep. How deep are yours it looks like I will need to modify mine for clamps like these and my t- track is not flush it is 1/2 below the surface. Looks like I need to make a few changes.
Aiph5u
(Aiph5u (not affiliated with Onefinity))
37
Hey David,
yet I have no wasteboard with dog holes, I am using all the 3/4" bench clamping tools since years for hand planing on workbenches and on the Veritas Worksurface which is 1-1/2" thick, the dog holes go through. I think indeed that blind holes with 3/4" depth is a bit too little for normal bench dogs. I would use holes that go through so they are suitable for normal bench dogs. I own both lengths but use the short ones on the worksurface, but they say that they are made for at least 2" thick workbench tops. If you can not use more depth than 3/4" blind hole, maybe normal bench dogs are not suitable because they are not very strongly fixed in the hole. The wedge-lock system on Bench Blade should be better for the wasteboard but holes must go through. For using them, the QCW Frame should be nice since there is no tabletop under the wasteboard, so dog holes go through anyway.
The Bench Blades project only 1/4" above work surface, and for tabletop thickness it says in the description:
Wedge-lock version usable at any angle; anchors firmly in any 3/4" diameter through-hole in material as thin as 5/8" (depending on material strength) or in blind holes at least 1-3/8" deep.
I connected my touch screen monitor to my Onefinity CNC. Its very slick and I am really pleased with all of it.
My thought is to build a tray/frame for the monitor to rest in along with channels for the cables to sit into and also be secured. I can put mounting holes or bolts on the back for the arm (there aren’t any).
I would want this to be minimal in design and not any more bulky than needed. I also want the cord channels to fit the cords well to secure them sticking out the side. Therefore the channel needs to be shaped to accommodate the fatter connecting point.
And, I need to have the stair step in the design so that the monitor is held flat. Its thinner on the top half than the bottom.
BTW, I am not very imaginative nor do I have any sort of engineering talent.
So, I as I stared at the monitor sitting on the spoilboard of my CNC, I pondered how I could somehow resolve the above with a precision cut piece to the exacting specs I would like for a result.
I ruminated on this for a few days desperate to solve it. I did take the time to also think about the enclosure for my …CNC. Also, cord management for my CNC, ordered a light kit for the enclosure of the CNC. Mounted the dust boot for my CNC.
Now if only I can figure out how to create this tray/frame for the monitor that controls my… CNC
True story and nothing was spared to protect the stupid!
(I posted this on reddit and it appeared to confuse at least one person. Point is, I should use the CNC to cut the holder to the exact specs I need. I really need to retrain my brain.)
