I found that it is advisable to pull the router up about 1/8" when clamping it into the holder. The router has a taper at the top. If you simply insert the router into the holder and let it bottom-out and tighten the screws, you are probably clamping on this taper. The router may feel tight, but if it’s clamped on this taper it will not be truly secured as intended by the holder, and could move when under cutting pressure. Additionally, it would essentially be sitting cock-eyed in the holder. The taper near the bottom is such that the router would not self-correct when tightening the screws.
Thanks Bill - good to know. I’ll have to check mine (as soon as it’s finished )
Thanks for the advise. I’ve not received my CNC yet, but have read of folks having “tilt” problems, I suspect you may have found the cause for some of them.
QUESTION - Having seen neither yet, what would you consider an easier fix? Turn the router collar down to eliminate the taper, or cut an inverse taper into the CNC’s clamp. Without seeing either parts yet,I think I’d rather alter the router than the CNC’s clamp. Having a nice square shoulder on the router would help insure a perpendicular bit alignment.
Turning down the router to a square shoulder would be ideal, although a tricky job… you’d have to remove the cord from the router. And you’re correct… I wouldn’t really want to cut a taper on the holder, as you may end up with the same condition, just buried deeper. Another fix might be to machine a narrow collar that clamps onto the router up near the tapered edge. Or even something as simple as a tight-fitting, large(ish) O-ring that would also serve to keep the router’s taper from falling into the mounting collar.