Spindle/Z Slider dropping / Spindle drop down on Poweroff/Estop (Elite Series)

24-36V actually according to Masso

And they’re running at 24v - I’m guessing you read the 36v on the Sherline spec page. I can assure you that the box it putting out 24v.

EDIT: I F’ed up above as I was referring only to outputs from the Masso Touch controller and the 5-pin molex on the Power supply. The steppers can take 5-24V control signals, but the 2-pin power connectors on the black 1F power supply are 36v and aren’t stepped down like the 5-pin connector to the Touch controller.

And testing at the G3’s power inputs (after cable losses):

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And i can assure you… it’s a 36v power supply in there. Open it if you don’t believe me

Check the motors

I’ve been there already and inspected and repaired what was needed before powering up for the first time. I know exactly what model PS is inside. :slight_smile:

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When i hooked up the wires for my 4th axis rotary i got 36 volts from the provided plug out of the black box. I needed 24 volts for the driver for my nema 17 rotary so i bucked it down. I am moving up to a nema 23 rotary and will replace that motor with a masso so i can get closed loop and get rid of the driver and associated crap…

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I suggest getting these, it’ll make the task easy

And this was on a power supply shipped with an Elite system, not an older box? Is your meter working properly? I’m not sure how that’s possible. I wouldn’t think they’d have shipped multiple versions, not when the Masso controller itself takes 24v input.

You can see my board is rev 1.03

The red area is voltage regulation (the buck step-down you needed) - some capacitors, inductor, diode, step-down regulator IC, etc.

Yellow box is the 36v connection directly from the Meanwell power supply to the board.

I tested this thoroughly when I first inspected the box and just for sanity’s sake just did it all again a few moments ago. The only power out of the PS box is 24v. +v is the second pin from the left on the 5-pin molex.

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I don’t know what your debating… i said theres a 36v power supply in there… you said there wasn’t… now you’re saying there is.

Go ahead tap into the masso power input lines… what’s the worst that could happen? At the very least you have to tap into the negative for a relay anyways. I bought those dual line splices as that was my original plan

I’m not debating anything. I simply said that Masso is 24V powered from a 24V Onefinity power supply. You mentioned that I was incorrect, so I stated the facts so everyone’s on the same page. You mentioned there were “dohickeys” in the box, I pointed out there’s a voltage regulator circuit. If stating the facts is debating, that must be a US thing. :rofl:

So, there’s a 36v framed Meanwell switching power supply COMPONENT inside the box. The black box itself is a 24VDC output power supply and 120V AC relay control. If you read the other post I linked you’ll see that missing labeling on the box is one of the problematic issues mentioned.

If you want to add something to Masso, you’ll want to connect it inside the Masso Touch controller box - just like your probes, 4th axis, etc. This controller runs 24V. The power leads inside it are 24V. If you have a 24V component you take 24V from inside it when hooking it up - there are instructions on the Masso site for plenty of different accessories.

Taking power for a 0.25A brake should not be an issue. Just taking a stab in the dark, but I expect there should be close to 12A available @ 24V (280W after knocking off 20% inefficiency losses of the original 350W of the source PS) - but I’m not a rocket surgeon so don’t quote me on that.

Possible that i got it wrong, will double check that. However i did have to buck down the power to my driver…for the Nema17. Probably just old age. Sometimes i have to ask what year it is…


Let us know how it works out for you… after all its only 20 something bucks for a power supply. I was advised not to, but FAFO

I wouldn’t re-make my own clone of the Masso controller, but the 1F power supply is a pretty simple deal, even to re-make from scratch. YMMV

Very easy to test how much power everything else is consuming to check the headroom.

ALL that said, I wouldn’t install a brake unless also installing a counter balance to eliminate the extra load on the stepper. That’ll also allow you higher speed without shake-rattle-and-roll.

I did just realize one thing I may not have been clear about. I’ve only been referring to and addressing the 5-pin molex connection between the power supply and Masso Touch. The five separate 2-pin power connections for the steppers aren’t regulated on 1F’s board. So absolutely those are the original 36v output.

There’s no shake rattle roll, and it’s a spring that when power is applied it passes signal thru without impedence on the motor, but if power is removed the spring let’s go and freezes the male shaft locking it in place.

Btw i didn’t say it was 36v going to masso. I know it’s 24v, all i know is its safe to do it the way i did it. I met a guy that after i did stupid stuff said he would take me under his preherbial wing so as i don’t kill some thing or some one

If you don’t want a brake, what are you doing in this thread, trolling?

Not talking about the brake. I’ve used similar designs to actuate levers, turn off water supplies, etc.

The spindle at ~11lbs requires significantly more torque to lift than it does to lower. Applying a counter balance without throwing off the center of gravity of the entire assembly or adding significant additional mass will allow you to increase speeds without added inertial forces that can cause shake.

Then we’re in agreement and while I don’t know why you earlier contradicted what I’d said and showed on the meter (at the plug and at the controller), I’m willing to forget about it.

Totally safe and if the original PS wasn’t up to the task or if you want to add higher or additional loads, it’s absolutely not only the correct way to do it, but the only way.

Most people shouldn’t be touching this stuff. I had to “repair” a lamp switch for a friend some months ago where his father had tied neutral and hot together inside the switch and was wondering why his circuit breaker was tripping.

Interesting because I thought I was one of the first people to participate in this thread back in April and I had already been on the look out for brakes a month or two prior. But I don’t want to pay $200 for a brake especially when they’re also useful on the other axis ($800!) as an emergency stop feature (given Masso’s e-stop is electronic and not 100% fail-safe).

But I’m also installing a counter balance. Which is what I said in the previous post.

I was referring to today…

There’s someone who sells something called the zee keeper or something. An aluminum rolled spring of sorts

We feel the need to quickly interject with all the talk of opening the power supply, adding breaks, etc.
The few chatting seem pretty experienced, but there’s thousands of users reading who aren’t responding with little to no knowledge of anything this thread discuses.

Opening the power supply is not recommended. ‘Tapping’ into anything inside, etc., will void your warranty. Adding aftermarket parts may void your warranty.

If you value your warranty, don’t do any of these things. If you love to tinker, go for it! Just know it may come at a cost!


For the record, i didn’t do anything in there more than look. Had to do something while i was waiting for the rest of my machine and playing masso emulator only goes so far. Too many thingy ma-jigs and what-cha-ma-whove’s that are probably important too mess with

“If it ain’t broke don’t fix it”

I know, the conversation got out of hand, and I contributed to that, so for that I’m sorry.

Most people these days shouldn’t be plugging in an electric kettle.

As far as opening things though, while warranties are nice and home owner’s insurance covers fire, I feel more comfortable after I have a look inside to make sure I won’t need to use either of those, especially the insurance.

But no one else should do it.

Have to open up the touch enclosure and wire to Masso to add things like a pendant. No need to ever tap anything of course as there are dedicated connectors for everything required.

I’ve always leaned more to “I won’t tell if you don’t tell” - because everything needs fixing. :innocent:

If it ain’t broke, fix it till it is :wink:

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So I measured the voltage from onefinity’s power connections and sure enough it was 36 volts dc…so im not as old as i thought i was

This is the box I printed, and the buck to drop the voltage for the 4th axis driver, it was 36v in dropped to 24v through the buck to get the rotary happily turning. As stated I intend to change out rotary with a new unit and swap in a masso motor with driver built in. Should clean things up .

Also in case your wondering why some of us using spindles want a brake. I included photos of damage to the rotary head and taistock to let you know what can happen when you need an emergency stop. In this case it just cost me bit, and live center.