Thank you very much James, this is a great overview of what is happening at the code level of the machine.
Until the new update is sent I’ll go back to manual control to be safe.
One Question, when you say “next software release” do you mean the next Firmware update from OF?? OR will there be some other update we need to be on the lookout for?
-Alex
It will be the 1.0.5 release from OneFinity.
Excellent write up! When I modified the post processor I used M3[S], which then uses the speed set in the tool database, which doesn’t do anything to the router itself, but will ensure the full voltage is sent to the relay. I might look at wiring to L1/L2 at some point in the future to simplify the setup.
Regards,
Barry
Thanks Barry, let me know when you get around to it as I’d love to swap mine over to the L1/L2 as well. As well as when 1.0.5 is updated.
-Alex
@CruversWorkshop: That is a good point. As long as you are using the tool enable output and not the tool PWM output, it should work like a charm.
If the unit is an electronic relay, it might not trigger without a crossing zero on mains (but it depends on the specific design). Some designs will not trigger without a load (e.g., something drawing current).
0.02
I take it you are the software engineer for Onefinity. Yeah I was talking to Mark about this safety issue. Awesome to see this change being made. Will there be any changes “we, the user” should make in the settings for “PWM spindle” to ensure at least a constant 3.2~3.3v PWM signal to the IOT relay for reliability?
Yeah using the tool enable would definitely be something I’d be more interested in by having that constant dc voltage which is what…24-36vdc?
The tool enable output (pin 15) is probably the best bet for controlling a relay versus the tool PWM output (pin 17). They both output 3.3V logic levels: 0V for low and ~3.3V for high. The main difference is that the tool PWM output will always be a PWM signal even if it is set to 100% duty cycle; it will still have a short 0V pulse every cycle in the order of a few hundred nanoseconds. This is an artifact of the way the timer module on the ATxmega microcontroller functions.
The good news is that the tool enable, which most people will use to control an external relay, is a straight logic output and should give you a straight 3.3V or 0V output without any glitching.
@Stewie21 - if you are referring to me, nope. But maybe someday when I come to my senses. 
-Tom
Lol, no I was referring to James. 
In your PDF instructions you specify that the relay should be switching the white neutral lead. Could you please explain the logic of that choice? Normally the black hot lead is the one that is switched in 120VAC circuits for safety.
It really doesn’t matter honestly in a 120v circuit. That black hot leg can’t do anything without that neutral path back to the panel. So you can break either the hot or the neutral and it’ll work either way.
You are correct that the device will not work if the neutral is switched. However, switching the neutral will leave the device connected to 120 volts. There will be 120V between the black wire and the ground wire at the router. The same is not true if you switch the black wire. There will be no voltage between the neutral and the ground. That is why you should switch the black, or load, not the neutral wire.
There is also no problem switching both the black and the white wire, if you have the correct type of relay.
The makita trim routers have no ground. Just hot & neutral.
You are correct. The 120 volts can be measured from the black wire in the router to any ground. The ground doesn’t have to be in the router.
@charleyntexas, setup with the relays but when doing a vcarve created in carbide create the router and vac are turning on and off with each raise/lower of the z. Any ideas how to avoid that?
Here’s screen shot of the settings I used to make it work. Pin 15 for + and a ground. Make sure you uncheck the boxes on the bottom or it won’t work. Hope this helps.
Thanks Mike… That was absolutely it… Two little check boxes…
Charlie is appreciate a diagram of tv’s L cheapo wiring
It’s great to see you’re a major contributor on this forum
