Hey Darren, hey all,
I understand.
The day you reported this, a new video popped up:
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Hey Warren,
IGUS chainflex CF6, that seems to be an excellent choice.
Did you replace the connectors too?
I bought LAPP ÖLFLEX® CLASSIC FD 810 CY for the spindle power. It is highly flexible, shielded, has double PVC inner and outer sheath and is specially designed for use in Power Chains.
I replaced end to end in a continuous run. My weak link is my ability to assemble the small plug that goes into the controller.
I found that molex sells the plugs preassembled with a length of wire attached. I think I will redo my ends by splicing those onto my cables. A machine made connector has to be better than any I will ever create. My problem has been in getting the pins to properly seat in the shell. I’ve gotten quite good at the crimp pins, but then invariably one or more pins don’t fully lock in. I epoxied the wires in, but the premade should be better.
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Where did you attached the ground too? Did you take a picture of the short?
How do you attach to the controller box? Must have to open it and modify the female plug socket?
Here is how I set mine up. I grounded the metal piece the controller was bolted too. I also grounded the frame and most important the dust collection. See photos in link below. Opening and modifying the machine seems like a quick way to void your warranty. 
Darren
Sorry I so realize your post is quite old, never the less I wanted to reply anyway being I have had this same problem my self and seems as though most everyone is asking the same question and or the same problem and not going about solving it. So it seems I may have come to a solution in my case anyway and hope this works for you if you haven’t already found one.
This is assuming you may have a dust boot!! So what I have done is taken and connected from the dust boot itself and then connected a small gauge electrical wire from the dust boot to a nut and bolt located elsewhere on the boot assembly.
I did not want to ground to the frame itself as I felt it could “possibly” make things worse rather than fix it. Secondly most people are trying to ground they PVC tubing which CANNOT be grounded! Period! You cannot ground non metal/ conductive surfaces and even doing so requires an immense work to “try” to do so.
Here is a photo of what ive done. I hope this helps! Since doing this I have noticed NO sparks/ conductivity at all!
(having trouble uploading the images so I will try to do so in a separate reply)
There was a longer write-up in another thread regarding the post above, which shows an alleged continuity pathway from aluminum > acrylic > bonding wire > PVC jacket on a flex hose. I’m linking them together so that they’re not addressed separately:
Yes please link them if you can. Thanks