W.I.P. CNC Table Design

After about six weeks I finally have everything setup. Thought I’d share my table and dust collection setup.


My table frame is all Douglas Fir. 4x4 posts with 2x6 rails and 2x4 mid supports. Rails joined to legs with 4.5" mortise and tenon joints. My friend has some precat lacquer that was about to expire so we gave it a few coats of that.

The table top is two sheets of MDF that is glued and screwed together. Then painted with Rustoleum enamel. Attached from underside with countersunk scews around the perimeter of the frame.

Mounted the OneFinity using 1/4" machine screws. Placement was specific to provide access to the nuts on the bottom side.

Started by machine a hole pattern in the table top for bolting down the spoil board base. Then clamped the spoil board base to the table and then machined three different hole patterns from the bottom side.
Pattern 1: 1/4" holes through the board with same locations as in the table top. These are used to assemble the base to the table. Had to avoid the screw pattern that was used to join the two pieces that made up the table top.
Pattern 2: Holes and pockets for 10-24 Tee Nuts for mounting the Tee Channel to the base.
Pattern 3: Holes and pockets for 1/4" Tee Nuts and mounting the spoil board segments to the base

Installed all of the Tee Nuts in the bottom of the spoil board base.

Used my touch probe and a homemade arm to tram the router using a piece of scrap clamped to the spoil board.

Installed the Tee Track Channels

Clamped each piece of spoil board down using the Tee Track and then machined holes and pockets for 1/4" machine screws for assembling them to the base.

Added dog holes.

3D printed covers for the Y-axis connectors and made a channel to cover the wires so they don’t get snagged.

Made a bracket for the joystick controller and hung the router wrenches on a nail. You can also see that the table legs have adjustable feet and that the height is just right for a garbage can and shop vac.

Attached the controller to the table top, then made a cover to keep the wires organized and to keep dust away from the cooling fan inlet.

Created a shelf attached to the X axis sliding block and fastened the X and Z control wires to provide strain relief on the connectors.

3D printed a dust boot and suspended the 4" hose from the ceiling with a 3D printed cradle and paracord which allows me to swap the hose to other nearby machines fairly easily. I fashioned my dust boot off the Suckit I made my own because I already had a magnetic connector system for all my other machines and I wanted to keep things consistent so I could easily swap the hose with my drill press and disc sander.

The dust boot is two pieces. They attach to the support arms using a sliding dovetail. I purchased the 1" brushThe hose attaches at the back and the front section slides out so I can use the touch probe. I’m in the middle of modifying my hold down clamps to be much lower profile so the dust boot can slide over them.

Here’s the hose connection in the rear.

Here’s a close-up of the magnetic quick disconnect. All of my hoses have a male connector and all of my machines have a female connector. The magnets are from K&J Magnetics. They are very strong in tension but fairly weak in shear so you just have to twist the hose and they separate.

This shows the cradle and paracord used to hoist up the hose so it can reach all areas of my machine without creating much twist in the hose. It also shows the power cord for the router that is suspended from my dust collection ductwork.

I hope you find this useful.

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