Metallic Copper only refers to the color. There is actually no metal in the filament. It is strictly ABS through and through.
Unfortunately ABS and ASA are the only filaments my printer will run with because it is operating under a proprietary software and they don’t allow you to change the print parameters. But that’s a restriction I’m willing to live with since ABS is a good material and I like that it works without me having to tweak and babysit the printer.
I know this is an old thread, but it’s exactly what I need right now. Thanks a lot @AdamsLeatherWorks for sharing your designs and version 4 SketchUp file. While I have my Onefinity mounted to a torsion box, your drawings are going to save me tons of time adding the vertical clamping component. So appreciative!
You don’t by any chance have the updated version of your SketchUp file…?
Great work, and thanks again!
Cool design. Have you done any vertical joinery yet? I’m thinking about the table I need to build and I definitely want to incorporate a vertical section, preferably near the front so I can still access the table underneath. Would you change anything with the experience you now have? Merci.
Bonjour Jean-Claude. Unfortunately, I did not and my design changed a few times since I acquired a QCW. I plan to change it again and attach the QCW to a flip mount so I can save some space in my garage an still be able to work with 4x8 sheet. Regarding vertical section with the QCW my thought was to install it in between two metal slots but go to the final design. I saw that SpruceKnotLab now propose one very similar on ETSY link.
Just found this post and very similar to what i am doing
Very curious how your table is working out with the flip panel for vertical cuts.
I had a few issues with my dust collection that was drawing from the rear. I was running a project over Christmas and wasn’t paying attention when I moved the router after completing a cut and crashed into one of my hold downs. This resulted in a broken support arm.
I decided I wanted to go with a longer brush so I would have more clearance and also to get better suction by placing the hose on the front side. Bringing the hose to front side also made it possible to raise the dust collector higher since it would no longer bump into the bottom the Z axis support plate. Since I have a custom hose connection I needed to design my own dust port. At the same time I designed a hose support that also connects to the slots in the Z axis plate. This new system works really well. Only problem is that my dust collector is so powerful it sucked up the small piece of brush that fills in the gap designed to pass through the router bit. Here are some pictures.
New Front Side Dust Boot with 1.5" Brushes
New Hose Support Bracket and Retainer Ring
New Hose Support Bracket and Retainer Ring Assembled
Complete Dust Collection Setup, including magnetic quick release hose connection
Hi Rex, do you have the files posted somewhere this design looks excellent!
You will need a 2 inch 8-32 machine screw with a hex head. The only place I found them is at Fastenal. Here are the knob and nut holder models.
Knurled Knob 8-32 - Height Adjust Block.stl (114.2 KB)
Knurled Knob 8-32 - Wing Nut.stl (2.2 MB)
Very nice design, clever use of the Z-axis dust boot slots for mounting the hose support bracket (I’ve always felt uneasy wrapping around the stepper motor), and thanks for the models!
I can imagine that you get better suction than with your previous dust boot drawing from the back. Do you still have relevant dust and chips not caught?
What dust collection system is hooked up at the end of the tubes?
I have not seen any dust shields with you so far, but you have a recess at the opening there. Do you use any? It would draw a little less external air.
I find the flexible, unbreakable shields a good idea (as shown here, here, and here)
Great design! I was printing the parts and realized that there isn’t an STL for the hose side of the coupler. Did you design one that mates or is the mating half available on another site?
Collecting from the front is much better and I can now get almost all of the dust. A very small amount escapes now. But it depends on the shape and thickness of the wood. With more overhang on the sides a little more will escape. I have an Oneida 3 Hp system. My main ducts are 6" and then at the blast gates I step down to a 4" hose to go to my machine.
I made a dust shield for my rear mounted dust boot. With my front mount the opening is much smaller. I have a recessed area to accept one but haven’t made one yet. I like the idea of making it flexible, but in my case the router is the same diameter as the dust boot so being flexible wouldn’t make any difference. The suction is so great I have actually considered making a system that didn’t even have a brush.
Thanks for the feedback.
Here is the hose adapter. You will also want to get eight magnets to put into the small pockets. Make sure you get the polarity on all of the magnets in the correct direction. I use a drop of CA glue to hold them in place. The ones I use I got from K&J Magnetics (model: D52-N52). They are 5/16" diameter by 1/8" thick. Strength is 4.15 lbs each. To disconnect the hose just give it a slight twist.
Hope this helps!
Hose Coupler - 4 inch OD Male.stl (3.0 MB)
My rear mounted dust boot was OK, but I’ve since moved to a front mount and it works much better. All of the files are posted in this post and a couple just above in this thread.
I use OnShape for all of my CAD design work and I use VCarve Pro for my CNC stuff.
Hope that helps!
Thanks for the update and the heads up on the magnets. Got everything printed on my Bambu Labs P1P and they look great! Terrific design!
Thanks, Rex! Just crashed my original boot, so firing up the Prusa now.
Great thread. Was there a resolution to the dust shield question?
I designed it for a dust shield but actually don’t need it because the hole is pretty small. If I were going to redo my design I’d ditch the dust shield lip and make the hole slightly larger so the router can go through the hole for cases when I’m using a short bit and the material is thin. Since my suction is really good I’ve also thought about creating a design that doesn’t use a brush. Being able to 3D print the boot to transition from a 4" round down to a shape that partially wraps around the router bit makes this a possibility. But right now what I have is working really well so I might never get around to it.
I am a long-time woodworker and using several pieces I already own. I’m connecting a Rockler 650 CFM Dust Right Dust Collector for my chip management and using their coupler to connect the quick-change handle.
Also planning to use RowdyRoman’s vacuum boom with its 4-inch clips to manage the hose.
I also found the McMaster Hardware Catalog for Easy-Cut Strip Brush on another OneFinity thread and was looking at these for your device.