I would use that as a starting point and try small speed increases to find the optimal finish vs cut time.
Upcut and compression bits will not run as fast as downcut bits due to the upward pull of the upcut bits. It has been my experience that all the Amana settings are conservative.
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Yeah, thanks. Iām gonna go ahead now and take the Amana for a test run. It has crazy raving reviews and I need to use more quality bits. So I wanted to test before I invest.
P.S. Great Video, found the answer 7 minutes into it. I plan on watching the entire 40 minutes this afternoon.
Thanks again J!
JENN
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So my roughing has taken 4.5 hrs using my new Amana Tool 46350-K CNC SC Spektra Extreme.
Iām working on a block of Teak Wood, 18ā (W) x 16ā (L), 2ā thick. The end product was nice and smooth, no tare, no rips, buttery smooth. I also noticed that the noise level during this rough was considerably less than my cheapie weapie bitsā¦. Go figure! 
Anyways my Angel and Baby, will start itās journey onto fruition (finish cut) tomorrow morning, the estimated finish will be 24hrs, using a Yonico Tapered Ball nose 1/32ā
I am planning on investing further into the Amanaās bits and I am considering as a replacement for the Yonico, these two Amana Tapered Bits:
Just not sure how a 5.4 degree stacks up against a 6.2 degree tapered ball nose.
Once this finishes, Iāll share with you the finished project.
P.S. I have a concern that profiling this piece might present a challenge since the thickness is 2.0ā and I donāt have a bit that will reach the bottom, withought banging into the left most wing, from what I can tell, the collet nut is right at the top most subsurface. I think I might need a three inch bit to reach down thereā¦. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
JENN
Hereās the 3D Model:
Hereās the Aspire Roughing Render:
Hereās The Rough Cut with my new Amana Bit:
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What is your stepover on that 1/16th bit? You might try profiling a wider area around the base before the last cut close to the carving.
Oh, you mean to make room for the collet Nut to fit in? Hey thatās a sneaky ideaā¦ I like it. But what 1/16th bit are you referring to? Iām using the 1/4" Amana to Rough, and Iām planning on using my Yonico Tapered Ball nose 1/32ā to finish.
JENN
Sorry yes I meant what is the the stepover and feed rate of the 1/32 ball nose that you are using?
A lot of the really small tip bits can use a larger stepover percentage because the size of the tip is already really small so the size of the scalping (the marks left from stepover) are not visible when you move this up. Most of the stock settings are horrible like 8-10%. You can go 30-40% and there will be little to no difference at that scale. But may cut half your cutting time.
18000rpm 40ipm 32%stepover
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Wow J!, really? Thatās a good bit of information. I have always worried that the tiny pin head tip would just snap off once she came out the gate. Being so tiny and (perceivably) fragile. I will do a test run with one of my older bits on a piece of scrap hard wood and letār rip, err so to speak.
Here are my settingsā¦ Ridiculously conservative?
Thanks for that J!
JENN
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Yes that 8% is ridiculous small and slow. Increase it to around 32% and leave everything else and you should be good to go. The first pass with the bit is 100% of the tip so 30-40% stepover should not snap the tip or break it.
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Awesome, I just did a recalc, and my 24 hr job has been cut in half, Yay! And close observation on the cutting is actually holding its own, moving along without whimper -
Thanks again J!
JENN
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12hrs vs 24 is significant less wear on the machine so to me these tradeoffs seem worth the small amount of sanding that you may have to do for the scalping. Although at that small I even doubt you can see the scalping. Anyways glad that helps. Good luck Jenn!
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Thanks J! Really appreciate the tips. I will upload photos, post production.
JENN
Not sure whatās goinā on now J, why is my bit shredding the wood, like torn shreds, ripping. See photos. This is Select Premium Pine, cutting with the grain, using my tapered 1/32 bit. I thought maybe it was because I was pushing it too hard, I went from a 32% stopover to 20%, and then to 10%, stillā¦ see the pics. Seems to happen when sweeping up against a contour. I also switched to a new bit, same deal. It kinda bunches up in there after a while creating like a knot of knurled fibers that are either shreds or uncut. However, along a straight path, I see how the bit does a nice curly cut the whole length of the 14" pine board, eventually the really long curls getting sucked into the vac hose. Not sure what to make of it?
JENN
What are your rpms set at? Generally when you get hangers or strands your speeds are too fast for the rpm you are set at. The bit is moving faster than its cutting so things donāt go smoothly. You may need to slow your rpms then recalculate feed rates and try again. Every type of wood cuts slightly different so learning the characteristics of each may take some time. What works on one kind of wood may not on a slightly different type.
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20000 RPM, and Pine. Does it matter if I cut with the grain or against the grain?
JENN
Try slowing rpms down to around 18000 I think your rpms are too high. Pine is a fibrous wood as usually its sold with higher moisture content than hardwoods so depending on how fresh it is will change the cutting characteristics. The grain can effect the cut so you can try cutting the rasta cut at a 45deg angle and it will not follow any grains.
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Okay, I will give that a shot, I didnāt think that 2000 RPM would make do much of a difference, but I gotta try. Thanks again 
JENN
The settings for cutting are very finicky and very small adjustments are the way to go. I adjust my rpms while the cutting is happening to watch the changes and dial in the cut. I recommend documenting your adjustments for the different types of wood that you cut. I have a different setting for each type of wood I cut and bit I use because each bit cuts differently.
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Understood, good tip. Thanks again J!
JENN
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