Anyone put the controller into a box?

My 1F is at the testing phase so I’m getting ready. I have my table built and most everything I need for it.
I’m thinking of putting the controller inside an old PC case and mounting it to the side of the table. Since I’m running a spindle I’m going to be running 240v to it. My plan is to split the 240 into two 120 legs to feed things like the dust collector, the controller, a 24v power supply, an overhead light, and the water pump.

I haven’t decided yet but I’m leaning towards using SSRs and having a control panel with switches on a stand with the monitor. HY sells a remote kit for the VFD display and I have a flow meter/ switch for the cooling line that has a remote digital display. So putting everything into a case just makes sense to me.

The only issues I can see would be the e-stop button but the breakout board would allow one to be mounted on the control panel. The other would be the USB port for uploading files from a memory stick. But a USB cable extension with a mounting bracket should work just fine.

Is there anything else I’m missing?

The stock controller already has RF issues with WIFI, adding another layer of RF isolation will likely make the WIFI completely useless. If you don’t mind that, where shouldn’t be any issues. You can get an external e-stop and wire through the DB25. Hope this helps.

-Tom

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The built in e-stop button effectively kills power completely to the controller, you could use an external switch for this as well. I’m sure an internet search would find something appropriate

also - on the breakout board there’s a pin labeled “e-stop” (pin 23) which I would imagine could be used for a soft e-stop although I haven’t tested it.

If you’re going to be using both legs of your 240v circuit make sure you have an appropriate neutral conductor in addition to the 2 “hots” and not using the grounding conductor (bare wire) for the unbalanced load between the 2 legs.

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I wasn’t planning on using the WiFi since it’s just as easy to just use a thumb drive so that shouldn’t be an issue. Without actually having the 1F yet it’s a little hard to pin down exactly what is the best way to do what I want. The case I was planning on using has a plexiglass window that I could mount the controller in a way to access the e-stop button if it’s needed to turn the controller on. The dust collector is going to draw as much, if not more power than everything else so it’ll be on one side of the 240v while everything else will be on the other to balance it out the best I can.