External E-Stop

Still waiting on my onefinity woodworker to be built, but that gives me plenty of time to think about mods…

Just wondering if anyone has added an external Emergency stop button outside of the controller.

I’m thinking I may mount the controller under the table or somewhere less accessible but I’d still like to have an E-stop on top of the table.
I haven’t seen many images inside the controller box & was curious how the E-stop is wired, soldered to the board, plugin headers, etc.

I wonder if the E-stop pin on the breakout board and the OF controller would support having both as an option.

I don’t have mine to look at as far as termination type, but I would say if you take one wire off the EStop push button then run that to the new button then back to the EStop where first wire was removed that would work. Probably a 3 conductor (one for ground) type SO cable would do. Just need to wire it in series with each other. And this is probably switching hot side of the AC so turn the power off! I’m sure others will chime in

Is the E-stop connected to the main power coming into the controller?
I wasn’t sure if it cut all the power or if it just cut the signal going out to the steppers.

1 Like

The physical button does all power.


This is what I use. For simplicity it connects to everything except the shop vac, which is on another circuit. So pressing this will kill power to the CNC controller, VFD for spindle, water cooling, computer, monitor, etc.


That’s a pretty good idea… like a router table on/off switch.
Do you notice any interference with the controller, monitor, pc & vfd on the same circuit?

That is exactly what it is. I think I picked it up on sale at Rockler.

I haven’t had any issues having that all on one circuit.


Is it confirmed that the ‘e-stop’ on the controller actually interrupts line voltage? If so wouldn’t a simple e-stop paddle connected to a power strip (that supplies power to the controller) suffice as an external e-stop?

I am wondering the same thing.

I am finalizing plans now and considering mounting my controller underneath and out of the dust.

Exactly, and additionally, the router could be plugged in to it as well allowing for it to be powered down via the same action.

1 Like

I just ordered one of these for a custom power-controller box I’m designing (or I might just use a standard electrical box). Also considering the under-table mounting option for the Onefinity controller as mentioned above.


OK… so that was an ill-advised purchase. That POWERTEC 71577 230V Magnetic Paddle Switch I linked to above is not grounded, so I’m not going to mess with that. I should have gotten the one @garrett1812 purchased (Rockler). I’m going to do that, now.

1 Like

If you get a Breakout Board Adapter from Onefinity or Amazon if you use pins 23 and 25 this is the logic circuit that is attached to the e-switch, by all rights this will do exactly like the E-switch. Then all you would need is a momentary switch that would interupt the circuit until it is reset.

PowerTec makes a 120v version of that switch. I got one off Amazon not long ago for my jointer when the OEM switch died and going to Deltas parts site the switch was NLA. So I went with the PowerTec magnetic switch and I like it over the OEM switch.

A big plus is it’s a magnetic switch, so if the power drops out for whatever reason your tool is not starting up again on its own. And it seems to be a better quality switch than Delta put in to begin with. After I bought that one I bought a couple more for other 120v power tools in the shop and one for my router table. I have one more that I will use as a master power/E-Stop for the CNC. It’s rated at 15A so might not get more than the spindle on there but that would be the biggest concern for me from a safety perspective.

1 Like

That’s only rated for 1/2hp - the Makita is 1 1/4. Is that an issue or is it a different type of motor?

You can get this one which is listed with UL and rated at 16A.

Or this one which is for 120v or 240v single phase.

And they have a bunch of other style switches with various volt and amperage ratings.

Yeah, I saw that one. The others are 16A 1/2hp rated. Probably would want to buy two so I could swap the paddle out of the lower rated one and put it on the good one. Although might be able to make a paddle on the 3D printer or laser too.

Look at the POWERTEC 71007 110 V to 220V Paddle Switch.

RATED: Single phase, Dual voltage 110/220 volt smart switch,
2 HP/35 amps at 120 volts; 3 HP/20 amps at 230 volts

Yes, the Makita draws 6.5A according to the spec sheet.

Makita RT0701C Router Spec Sheet.pdf (721.5 KB)