As part of my installation I am moving the E-Stop button from inside the controller to a more convenient position so I opened the controller and learned that there are three cables going from the power supply to the Estop and then on to the actual control board.
What is the max power drain of the Onefinity? I can’t see it anywhere on the site.
I am wondering because I need to make longer cables for the E-Stop (about 3 feet long) and the fewer cables I need to run the simpler it is for me.
Thanks folks
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Hey GregZo,
this is a good idea since usually you want the emergency stop button to be in good reach when operating the machine. However the big red button on top of the Standard Series Onefinity Controller box is not triggering the Estopped mode of the Onefinity Controller.
As Onefinity stated here, their Hardware Emergency Stop button is not wired to the “estop” input of the mainboard, but interrupts power to the entire controller at the internal power supply instead. Therefore it is not advisable to use this big red E-Stop button on the controller’s case AT ALL, for the reasons explained here.
So it’s the ideal opportunity to wire the big red emergency button in a way that it really triggers the Controller’s ESTOPPED mode with the benefit that router or spindle are stopped too (which would not be the case if you only lengthen the wires to which the red button is now connected).
How to connect the red button so that it triggers the emergency stopped mode of the controller is described here.
Note: In estopped mode, a spindle’s VFD is sent the STOP command (that according to the updated IEC 60204-1 is a “Safe Torque Off” (STO)) via ModBus or via safety circuit wired to controller, but in order to switch the Makita router off too, it needs to be connected via a relay e.g. like this External IoT relay (FAQ) to the ‘tool-enable’ pin of the I/O port of the Onefinity Controller with a Breakout Board Adapter (see thread here).
Further Reading
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Wow. I didn’t realise. Thankyou for all the help, I will have to change my plans and use the Breakout board EStop instead ( pin 23 - pin 25 switch) - a much better idea.
I’m so grateful for your help !
Hey GregZo,
additionally you could still have a big red switch that cuts power to everything, near the door, in the case of fire. The controller “estopped” mode makes sure that all motors are stopped, including spindle (safe torque off – STO), but without cutting the power to the controller, while the big red button at the door of the workshop would have the purpose to cut electricity from the entire installation, in case of fire, where potentially damaging the controller or the VFD by the sudden power cutoff would not matter, since preventing the place being burned down has a higher priority, and in order to extinguish a fire, you need to have everything quickly cut from power.
Good point. I will be doing that too. Thanks again folks !
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This is what I did …
Got a 15 AMP extension cord, mounted it to my table … cut the end off the extension cord and added one of these: " Rockler Safety Power Tool Switch - Heavy-duty 15 Amp Power Switch -“Stop Paddle” to Quickly Shut off Power - Safety Switch for Router Tables or Workbench - Router Table Accessories"
My extension cord runs the controller and router … so smacking the button kills EVERTHING. And yes I have done it more than once.
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