There are other sizes available here:
There are routers very similar to the Makita but with real ER collets, which has many advantages. Look for “ER11 router” in this forum.
- That there exist Makita hand trim router clones with real ER collets. → See here for comparison of Makita vs. ER collet.
Two examples with ER collets:
Note that for a spindle or router for ER11 collets, you get collets for bits with 1 to 7 mm bit shank. That means with a ER11 router or spindle, you can use bits with a 1/4" shank by using a true imperial 6.35 mm collet or a normal 6.5 mm metric collet, but bits with a 3/8" (9.5 mm) or 1/2" (12.7 mm) shank cannot be used with a router or spindle for ER11 collets. For 3/8" (9.5 mm) bit shanks you would need a router or spindle for ER16 collets, and for 1/2" bit shanks you would need a spindle for ER20 collets which will take up to 13 mm bit shanks (1/2" = 12.7 mm).
suggesting Jim’s advice, with his focus on
- cleaning also the seat of the collet,
- making sure bit is fully slid into collet, and
- finally tightening very firmly with two wrenches:
If you take the collet out along with the nut (really should so you can clear any sawdust out of the vanes/slots of the collet which will keep it from tightening securely), then hold the nut between your thumb & forefinger while your fingers curl around the bit. Then screw the nut onto the shaft with your thumb & forefinger while pushing the shaft lock button in with your other hand.
Snug it with your thumb & forefinger. Then adjust the bit up or down until there is about 1/16 or 1/8" between the collet and the end of the flutes. That will keep the sawdust & chips from riding up the flutes into the collet.
Then take your wrenches and tighten the nuts. I tighten mine more than I would with an ER16 or 20 collet because of the way the Makita collet is made. But remember you will have to loosen them some time soon