The first two cuts are not the problem.
But I can do whatever I want with the 45 degree cut in the VCarve Pro, it doesn’t work (I have a 90 degree V-bit with a diameter of 13 mm). I tried all kind of different ways… no success.
Does anyone have a recommendation on how I can mill this wood joint?
Thank you very much and have a happy new year.
Joey
Hey Joey,
You’ll need to provide more specifics on how you are going about this carve. Such as, horizontal vs vertical clamping orientation, and V-Carve steps, for example.
I would think about it this way, which may be right or wrong
Using the attached image…
Thinking of cutting the yellow highlighted board (which is obviously upside down)
Depth A = Width A
Depth B = Width B
Depth/Width A is equal to the physical depth of your 90 degree v-bit
Depth/Width B is 30mm minus the physical depth of you v-bit
The depth and width of the blue and pink boxes are 1/2 of B
The red triangle represents your v-bit
I’d cut the pink area (including the area shaded pink) first, then the blue area
Lastly, I’d cut with the v-bit where the point follows a vector that’s on the edge of the board and at 30mm depth. For clarity, I’d do this in multiple passes, but in effect the last pass would see the v-bit running right on the spoilboard with the point of the bit along the edge of your board.
I have no experience with VCarve. But I was recently noodling how to machine a similar joint, with both of the mating boards fixtured flat on the spoilboard. I concluded that a small internal relief cut would be necessary to keep the side of the V-bit from rubbing on the workpiece. Which may or may not explain why VCarve is refusing to do your bidding.
Here’s a crude sketch of my proposed CNC joint, next to a traditional table-saw version of the same joint.
When machining the board that’s oriented vertically in the sketch, the small triangular void next to the 45-degree bevel provides clearance for the side of the V-bit. I drew the void fairly large in the sketch, but in the real world I’d expect that a few thousandths of an inch of clearance would be sufficient.
But this 45 degree cut, I can’t get right, regardless what I tried so far. So any idea how to set this up in V-Carve Pro… On the end, I hope to join those corners together and have a better result as with my table saw (as it is not a professional one).
Thanks so far for your efforts and thoughts.
And sorry, I hope it is somehow clear what I mean… English is not my native language. So sorry for any strange sentences.
Joey
Hi karma
Thank you for your response. Yes, I think I tried like you said (see above my pictures), but the last one (A) doing in 45 degree, that’s where I’ve got some problems…
It’s going to depend on the dimensions of your 45 degree v-bit. You’ll need one for the left piece that is 10mm in height from point to flat. Any more than that and it’s going to undercut the riser on the next step. That’s for a kiss cut through your material so the point just brushes the spoil board. Or you’re going to need to go deeper into the spoil board.
Assuming you’re going for the kiss, you’ll need to know the width of the v-bit from edge to edge. Draw a line 1/2 that measurement from the edge of the 2nd step’s riser. Do a profile cut along that line going to the waste board surface. That’s going to cut into the vertical portion you show in your picture so I’d reduce that to the surface of the first step for at least 1/2 the diameter of the bit in width so you don’t bury the v-bit as it drops down to do the profile cut.
The right hand piece is easier as you won’t have to worry about hitting the riser since your picture shows you leaving a lip between it’s 45 slope and the riser.
Good morning Jim Hatch
Ah, that explains me a lot, thank you very much. Now it’s more clear to me why it is not working with my V-Bit. I don’t have the right V-Bit in this case and would need a new one. So therefore for this box, I’m looking for a new solution and I think I found one already. Hope to see this afternoon, if it is working or not.
Have you tried using the moulding toolpath in VCarve with the 90 degree v-bit as the finishing tool? Its great for repetitive cuts like that.
I’ve spent the better part of 2 weeks using it to mill trim (base boards, wainscoting, crown mouldings, door/window frames, etc) for a 6ft tall dollhouse for my daughter. The moulding toolpath is about the only thing I use Aspire for anymore.
Interesting idea. I may have to test that out.
I am planning to make some boxes in the new year. My plan is to use a large 1/4” 45° degree bit to cut the miters. Following up with a 1/8” bit to cut sides of part out & 1/4" grooves in the miters to add a 1/4" square spline for reinforcement.
Initially I’ll make it all the way along the miter, then refine it to not be seen,
I tried 2 other methods to cut 45’s one was with a 1/4" ball nose and molding tool path the 2nd was to use a small 90 degree v-bit and a fluting tool path doing multiple passes. Neither method produced a 45 I deemed usable.
I’ve used those “lock miter” router bits before. Even saved some scraps so I could reset the height and fence. Was really hit and miss if your stock is not exactly the same thickness as last time.
Have you tried using a router table? A cnc is a great tool, but it’s definitely not the easiest tool for these types of cuts! You could knock this out with a large 90 degree v bit (I recommend the Whiteside 1508) and a 1/4" endmill in a few minutes.
I use to use a 45° bit in a router table but there is only one way I found to keep sides the exact size. Cut mdf pattern, tape it to your blank and use a 45° bit with a bearing. Using a v bit I could never get the front/back or sides to be the exact same length. With the bit following the pattern all the miters fit perfectly every time. CNC will give the accuracy and repeatability without having to create a pattern for every size box.
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