Do I need a Torsion box for the 1F Elite Foreman?

Not sure if wasteboard is the right category, but hoping to get some input.

I have had an XCarve 1000 since 2015 and just recently decided to upgrade to the 1F Elite Foreman. For my XC I built a 48"x48"x5" torsion box and it was one of the best things I could have ever done, while everyone else (back then) was having rigidity and stability issues, all I had to do was tram and square and I didn’t have any of the issues others were having related to support.

I was considering doing the same for my new Elite Foreman, however I also wanted the mobility so I bought the Kreg 64x64 universal bench with standard height legs.

My thought is to add one or two tube steel stretchers and then build a torsion box that’s 66-70" in both dimensions that will sit on top of the Kreg bench.

I don’t have the Elite in hand yet, so I’m wondering, based on the 50mm tube axis and the additional stiffy if I need to go to that extreme of if I can just do a 2x4 top or even 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood?

Hoping to get feedback on whether or not I should stick with a torsion box, it served me well on the XC and I never had to worry about flatness or rigidity…

Any thoughts?

I am struggling with the same question.

I am leaning towards the 2-3" thick torsion box over a 2 by 6 ish wood frame.

I am considering Jay Bates ( ) idea of a vertical table on the right side … might do 24" instead of his 12"

I will likely do the t-track hold down approach … kinda like the QCW. I had a QCW on a Journeyman and it worked well enough.

As far as dimensions are concerned, that is my hold up now. My machine is getting a spindle and ATC added to it, so I don’t know how much more landscape I need.

Because of the tool holder tray blocking the material feed in the “Y” direction, I am thinking I may “jack up” the machine so I could tile in the “X” … just an inch or so.

Agree 100% with the vertical clamping on the right, and like you I want to do the whole 48" right side, basically a gutter, with several clamping option slots, just not sure how to lay that out with a 66 to 70 inch torsion box on the 66" Kreg table.

As for wasteboard, I like the QCW but I’m going to go with this approach instead … The G.O.A.T. Spoilboard | CNC Greatness - YouTube I pretty much have the same on my XCarve, and it’s been super handy, so not changing it.

Can you provide more detail on the ATC \ Spindle config? I have a 2.2Kw water-cooled spindle with VFD from pwncnc on order, and ATC is in my longer-term plans.

Might want to consider this for increasing Z height… Riser Blocks Digital File - Etsy I bought the STLs and I’ll 3D print myself, but he sells printed versions as well.

Torsion box would help prevent table sag and force from the cutter from pushing the surface down. That’s different from the 50mm tube and stiffy (actually, those could make it worse since they are very rigid). I built one for my regular woodworker. So I have no actual experience for you with the Elite but I’d say you are better safe than sorry.


So the next question would be, should i do a “standard” torsion box, like this … 18 - How to Build A Torsion Box Assembly Table Top (Part 1 of 2) - YouTube it’s the type I used for my XCarve.

Or should I go with a Paulk style benchtop, which I believe is still technically a torsion box design, despite the openings … Building the Paulk Workbench, Part 2 (Torsion Box Body) - YouTube

If I go with the Paulk design I can easily leave an opening on the right side for vertical milling, as well as a trough in the front for a rotary, and it will be open inside for routing of cables and storage…

My spindle/ATC are coming from These folks have been selling an Avid kit for some time, and for even longer selling retrofit kits. Check out Clough42 on youtube.

Mine is the first 1F they are doing, and it is taking longer than estimated, but I would rather have it done right.

As TMToronto will tell you the ATC option is like the old boat joke. That being a boat is a hole in the water into which you dump cash.

I will double the cost of the Elite Foreman, but it will still be cheaper than an Avid or Shopsaber of equivilent configuration.

I will not be using a Pauk style bench as height would be an issue. With ISO 30 tool holders, I think deep drawers are in my future. I have Paulk style bench as my outfeed table for the table saw… and it is a good fit there (track saw usage)

I didn’t go with a torsion box because I wanted access to the underside of the table. I used 1 1/8" subfloor plywood (advantech) for below the wasteboard. I used 2x6 16" apart with hanger brackets to hold them in place. i did double up the sides and ends. I did run all of the 2x6s though my jointer to make them nice and flat. I can easily stand on the table and not have any flex. I used 4x4 posts for the feet. I haven’t yet but My plan is to make a slot in the table where I can put a dovetail jig or rotary axis.