Looking to learn from others as I design my table. I ordered the Foreman so the footprint of the machine is 64"x62.6".
Requirements:
Must contain the entire dimensions of the machine within the table footprint.
Must be on a mobile base.
Must have a removable section for vertical carve capabilities.
Must have storage for bits and machine extras.
I was thinking about building 68"x68"x34" square table with 6 lockable casters. The removable section would probably be 12" deep by 40" wide? Drawers of various sizes would line the back and sides.
I don’t know how to plan for the controller mounting solution yet and I believe there’s a separate power box and future VFD to think of. Is there anything else I should have in mind? I have dust collection and power in the floor next to where it will sit.
here are a couple of designs for vertical holding tables. if you have any questions, I would be happy to answer what i can. Show us your vertical clamping methods!
Thank you for that link. Im most perplexed by how I should plan for that large Masso controller. I know it can mount on the rails but not sure if thats a convenient location.
I have been working on my Elite table design for awhile now before mine comes in.
due to the limitations of my shop I am going for a flip top table similar to Drew’s over as the Fisher’s Shop. I did purchase his plans, but basically redesigned 90% of it.
this thing is going to be a beast @ 80" long by 22’ish " wide when folded.
also a quick video of it in action - still a few things to get worked out.
looking to either have no legs (doubt it) or just on the front of which ever side is proud.
question: is the monitor/controller the only equipment I need to worry about finding a home for? the one thing i haven’t paid much mind to is a location for future spindle/eq. i did order the 80mm for future upgrade.
That looks a lot like my build except I put my drawers opening along the 22" depth vs the short front of the cabinet. (I posted pics & measurements in a couple of threads about 18 months ago).
It is going to be a bear to lift up & flat. I added an electric winch to be able to pull it flat. When it’s tilted the X rails will slide down and then it’s very heavy to tilt it back flat so the winch takes care of that.
appreciate it. using this project as a way to teach myself fusion 360 as well.
hoping to get this puppy built this week but getting hung up on the unknowns i need to plan for with the build.
I found yours Jim, i bet that winch is nice to use. mine is going to be a beast to lift and may have to devise something to help it out. i am thinking about mounting other equipment to the ‘work table’ side to help with the center of gravity. i have built a couple other flip tops so have a bit of experience with them. however, this one is by far the largest and heaviest. but if i can at least get it closer to balance it shouldn’t be too bad.
i am still a bit worried the actual table is too short @65" to accommodate the drag chain etc. I also plan on flipping both the Y and the X rails so i can have the controller on the right side of the table.
If you make some kind of thing to stop the X axis from moving and you park it in the center before flipping it will work fine by hand. You’ll also want to park the router in the center of the axis tubes as well.
I did make two pieces of wood about 18 inches long with cutouts to fit around the feet where the Y axis tubes connect. I put them on the tubes after I power down by pulling the X forward. That keeps the X from dropping any closer than 18" from the table edge. It helps with the weight a bit so doing something that centers it would keep you balanced. Just make sure you lock it into place both forward & back because you can flip the table 360 degrees if you want.
Be careful of the height of things you mount to the other side as they may hit the base and prevent full rotation.
Ended up sticking with 65. Looked at a video from @MyersWoodshop and looks like the drag chain will fit in the overall dim. At least i hope.
I am planning on mounting the masso controller on the cabinet side and made it wide enough for that reason.
I’m hoping it all works out.
Even as big as it is i am really looking forward to using it. Especially since i removed some storage to make this fit which is why my work bench is covered in tools right now that will eventually go into this cabinet.
How is yours coming?
I am very interested in a vertical clamping option which may prove difficult in my set up. But already thinking about redesigning my top somehow to accommodate.
We’re all massively overbuilding the torsion box tabletops. It could be built from 1/4" plywood and be strong enough. That’s the whole reason behind them - lightweight, thin, cheap materials to build very strong boxes.
That verticle clamping bit is what had me hung up today. I know I’m over thinking it but the footprint diagram leaves me with lots of interior meaasurement questions. Right now i think ill have about 16 inches of depth and 40 inches wide if my thoughts are correct on dimensions.
Agreed. I went back and forth on variations of the torsion box and just set on overbuilding it anyway.
The top turned out pretty nice and is well balanced. I could spin it with very slight pressure with one finger. Should work pretty well.
Leaving the other side off untill the 1F comes in. Not sure how im routing wires yet so leaving my options open. But do plan on flipping both x and y for better wire management.
Got all the drawere boxes made today… going to use the cnc, when it gets in, to make the drawer faces as i have something in the works for that. Got the idea from this video
That’s what I did. I ran the Y wires through the axle into the box and out of a T fitting. Then ran the wires through the web pieces so I could bring each one up just in front of the Y feet. I did need extensions from OF to make that work. Also brought the X through the box and up in the middle of the side space so it’s got enough play to extend along the Y length as the X travels back & forth on the rails. That way I’m never plugging & unplugging the OF wires at the controller or motors - they’re not really designed for a lot of plugging/unplugging action.
Thanks for that. I haven’t ordered the extensions and will get on that. i was hoping i didn’t have to plug/unplug each time so that sounds promising.
did you do anything around the steel pipe the wires are running through? seems pretty sharp and worry over time cutting through the wires. I am thinking of putting in a sleeve or something but curious if you have anything you did to protect the wires running through the T fitting
Yep, I put a plastic liner in there. I got about 6" of plastic tubing from Home Depot that fit inside the Tee. Trimmed and glued it in place with some silicone adhesive. Did the same on the cabinet end of the pipe too - that’s where I have my controller (in what you have as the top drawer - I made a shelf & door for the space instead). I ran my other wiring - for the screen, USB port extender, AC plug - through the cabinet top.
