Elite Table Builds

Thanks for the response. Would you mind posting a picture of your table so I can see your caster/leveling setup? I am building a 6 x 6 table for my Foreman but will use 6 or 8 casters because of the weight of the bench, CNC and what i expect to store underneath (wood, etc.)

Very interested in your table design. I have also purchased the Fisher plans on-line. I am interested in;
how much did you end up offsetting the pivot point from center? and what did you end up using as “bushings” for the iron pipe to rotate in? I note the Fisher just says " I found some plastic things at the home store"…I haven’t found those yet - wondered if you might have identified something more specific?

Thanks for the very thorough details of your built. It is very helpful!

I used some PVC pipe couplings when I built mine (but for a Jman). I did find the same fittings Drew used in my local ACE hardware store with some pool fittings. The PVC has been working fine, no issue.

the offset i used was 3.5" from the edge, 2" down from the top was to offset my torsion box thickness so it was flush. your milage will vary.

the ‘bushing’ i used is what Jim also referenced. i believe it was this one linked below and works very well.

I really like my table, but honestly don’t flip it that often unless i need the most out of my SF, but when i do it works great. i can’t really think of anything i would change other than maybe the legs, but thats mostly because of my uneven floor. i am sure its twisting things, but i have cut some pretty precise pieces that have tight tolerances and works good enough for me.
i am in the process of moving cross country and looking for a larger shop space with the hopes of a permanent cnc station.

1 Like

Thanks so much for the help!


1 Like

I store mine flipped and only open it up when I’m working a project. I did add a HF winch with remote so I can flip it open easily. I don’t worry about lining up the X rail so it puts the COG over the pivot pipe which makes for an easy flip open. Usually I have the X rail to the front which makes the flip close really easy, because …gravity :grinning:

I put threaded inserts in the bottom of the legs for adjustable feet and have the floor marked where to park it so they drop down preset. I know @Aiph5u would be appalled because I don’t do the fishing line test for coplanarity every time I move it but I’m only doing wood projects and micro variances just don’t make a difference to me - inlays and complex work have been fine so I don’t try to achieve milling machine accuracy (did I mention I’m working with a material that can swell or shrink more than the 3 decimal places of accuracy the table give me? :grinning:).


Exactly. Everything i have done (correctly) has been well within tolerance

1 Like

Aloha from Honolulu - I have an Elite inbound and needing a folding table due to space limitations. I have Fishers plans but I really like some of the improvements you’ve incorporated @RockingMallet - Are your files available anywhere to incorporate those improvements in my build? Happy to pay to save me R&D time.

I used Fisher’s table as a starting point for my Elite Journeyman. A few adjustments had to be made.

  1. Fisher’s design is for a Woodworker machine. I changed the table size to 70 1/2 by 48. However, this is wider than it needed to be (but only by a few inches). I also increased the thickness of the torsion spacers to 3 3/4 inch.
  2. Given the size of the table, using a continuous 1 inch pipe as the pivot seemed like a good idea.
  3. Given the height of the Z gantry and the stiffy, I moved the axis (i.e. the pipe) to 5 inches from the back (instead of centered).
  4. Since the table was wider, the height of the cabinet and other support had be increased.

When it was completed and the journeyman installed, I was amazed how heavy this was. Getting it to rotate required considerable effort. I tried gas springs but could not find a good place to put them. An option that I did not explore is clamping the X gantry in the middle of the table.

Good Luck