And it’s a success!!
Here is my first ever rotary carve completed. I still need to master better Vectric for rotary, but overall Onefinity revolution is very straightforward to use.
And it’s a success!!
Here is my first ever rotary carve completed. I still need to master better Vectric for rotary, but overall Onefinity revolution is very straightforward to use.
Very nice, I have made several chess sets using my home made rotary and have had good results, you might want to reduce the step over in your program to get rid of the lines depending on the finishing tool you are using, I also notice you have the same dust collection issue, be interesting to see what 1F comes up with for a dust boot.
How long to make the Knight?
Pat
very very nice my man, yes as Pez said, reduce your stepover.
I have been thinking about dust collection myself, I am still waiting on my revo to be shipped. But I am thinking of trying to design and 3d print a dust collection system that is under the 4th. or instead of under (depending on room) one that snaps onto the 4th rail. i will have to get mine in first to see what kind of clearance we have.
I am also going to design a true steady rest for it instead of just a center.
Thanks!
Blockquote PezWoodworks
you might want to reduce the step over in your program to get rid of the lines depending on the finishing tool you are using
I was using a 1/16 tapered ballnose with 7.5% step over. I guess rotary is not same as 3d carving in flat. Might be the bit too, as I used a new one. Took about 1.5 hours to do.
I was also surprise how the spinning of the rotary is not perpetual, but goes up to 360degres and then back 360degres.
I will have to look more how to use Vectric with rotary.
I’ve just been using a sheet metal register duct. Since the rotary itself doesn’t move it doesn’t need a dust shoe like other projects. I’m thinking of making a drop in spot on my table for the rotary. If I do I’ll leave the spot between the rails open so I can connect up dust collection below it down under the table. I’m thinking two or three zones with blast gates or just making flat pieces of wood to block off the section to the right that’s not being used for smaller projects. Between that and maybe removable panels on the front and back should capture most of the wood shavings.
I use a tapered end mill with 1/32 tip and 7 % step over and I don’t have to sand the piece after machining, not sure of the size of your piece but my Knight which is 1-1/8 at the base takes about 55 minutes, this includes the rounding routine as I start with sq stock.
See attached pic
beautiful!!!
Mine was oversized at 1.6inch base as a test.
Wow!! Really nice! You and PezWoodworks making this look good! Which machine is the rotary on?
I have the Woodworker Elite
Pat
PezWoodworks, how did you got ride of the undercut for the rooks top for example? Or inside the bishop heads?
Yes, very curious about this myself.
The Bishop is complete when finished in the CNC, the Rook however has a second operation I do in my conventional lathe with a forstener bit, I chuck on the block of wood on the bottom. I also drill a hole in the bottom of all the pieces and add lead shot / epoxy to weight them for a good feel, then add felt to the bottom.
It is a long process but they turn out nice.
Pat
Did you model those yourself? Or can you tell me where to purchase files for the set?
Awesome work!
I have done some pieces on my lathe and tapped and countersink for a flat head bolt instead of lead weights. Covered it with felt.
I followed M S Woodworks on YT
The models are from 3D model store, they have many different versions of chess pieces, mine cost about $30.00, well worth it in my opinion.
Pat
That’s a good idea, I might try that on the next set, lead shot and epoxy is a lot of work.
Thanks, Pat