Referring to the table I built, it has a littler wobble to it but I don’t see it being a problem long term. I have locking casters and drop down feet that have adjustable feet under them in order to level everything perfectly. The pivot point was just a guess and will likely change with different table dimensions. I believe I used 5/16 bolds for the hardware.
As for more pictures, Let me know what you would like to see. Since my original post I have moved and welcomed a baby to our family so unfortunately the machine is in a functional yet messy (temporary) configuration.
Congrats on the new addition that isn’t a power tool (but as expensive!). Enjoy the time as a new dad…mine are 20 and 16 now and they grow up too fast!
Looking at various designs so appreciate your thoughts. Fisher wood shop is finishing his and I’m hoping he releases plans so I can customize. Meanwhile looking at spindle options now, so trying to figure out where to put all those pieces means I need to look at multiple table options.
I placed a cabinet on the left with a pullout for the controller and 2 drawers. Setup a place for cable managing in the back. Placed two bolts in the front to keep table level instead of legs. Seems solid so far.
You seem to be located in Canada as am I. I looked around when I was building my spoil board and found this supplier with prices that were better than what I found elsewhere. The track doesn’t have holes drilled in it, so you’ll need to do that yourself with a drill press and countersink bit.
There seem to be two types of t-track - a taller one that can take normal hex bolts and a shorter version that won’t. This is the shorter track, but you can buy bolts and nuts from the same supplier that fit these slots.
The lifting handle, good idea, mind if I steal it? I still have not figured out how I am going to route the wires on my machine. Right now I disconnect them before flipping the top for storage.
Thanks. I had to figure something out so I wouldn’t crush my hand lifting. Also, I place 2 long strips of wood between rails to hold the X axis to rear of table for weight distribution. Helps a lot.
I ordered my t track on amazon. Just waiting to install now along with wasteboard. Has been a fun project and learning experience about a murphy style table.
That is something I need to look at. I was visualizing ways to keep the X-axis in place. Unfortunately, just after completing my table I had to go away for work. Looking forward to putting all of my Carbide designs to the test when I get home.
@Mogregs Hey how’s things, I’m attempting to build my own flip table and have a few questions for you if you can help?
With your table/design what is the width of the torsion box material. I’m guessing it’s something like 46" wide x ??" x 3/4" thick, and what clearance should be left in the folded up position between the torsion box and the bottom of the table (so as to allow it to rotate freely.
Lastly with the Onefinity mounted to the bed, does the ‘Z’ stepper motor protrude past the outside edge of the table when folded up? As I’m aware the height of the Z axis plus stepper motor is 17.5"
For my table, my entire frame is 29” wide, work table is 48”x48”. The Z axis does not protrude past frame. Instead of using bolts to pivot table on, I purchased a threaded 6’ rod, cut it down and placed nuts on the inside and locknuts on the outside. I also used 4 each 1200 lb bolts with circle ends to put rod through. Should have placed one in the center as well. May do that in the future. Takes a lot of stress off the wood I think.
I’m anxiously awaiting my WW Onefinity CNC. For now I’m planning a cabinet for it.
I’m looking for some input.
Background:
The CNC will be in my garage and there are cars in there once in a while. I do plan on a folding top cabinet similar to what is on this topic. It will be placed against a wall when folded and not in use. I have enough width (60") and height (90"), but I must place the folded up CNC cabinet against the wall while not in use. It has to share garage space with my cars. It will be hard to allow more that 20-22" when folded.
My questions:
Could a cabinet be made that is 22" or less?
Would it be reasonable to remove the X rail when folded?
Would it be reasonable to remove the X Axis when folder?
When folded, could the X rail and Z Axis be positioned so that i extends above the cabinet and could stick out past the front of the cabinet
What would be the minimum base thickness? I was thinking 2 layers (3/4" ply + 3/4" MDF). I’d use a piano hinge on the back support rather than have a thicker torsion box design.
Plan:
regardless. I’ll place the CNC on a 4’x4’ table using MDF when I first receive the machine to set it up and get it running. The cabinet is a little longer term.
@drewfisher has plans and a video (Fisher’s Shop) for one that width which had to fit through a narrow opening in his basement. Probably worth checking that out to see if it will fit your space.
@chrisfisher The width of the material is 2-1/4" so that I had an even 3" top when the MDF was paced in top. I don’t quite understand you second question. And I do recall the Z motor protruding from the dimensions of the box a little I can tell you how much because I have since fixed the table in the open position because I don’t need it to fold anymore.
Thanks for the reply. To clarify, I thought I could make the cabinet and CNC take less depth against the wall if I removed the X and Z axis so when folded 90 degrees, it would be shallower < 18-24"
“Would it be reasonable to remove the X rail when folded?”
I meant to ask if taking the X axis/rail off regularly would be a detriment. That is, would I create alignment issues, etc.
@Britney I’m half way through building something similar to yours, can you elaborate or share any photos of how you set up the rod and eye bolts? Any insight is appreciated. I’m using 1" black pipe but definitely concerned with longevity.
I would have liked going with a pipe, but my design was a thought in progress from other designs. I finished up well and is solid. I still need to put a front face on my cabinet, just been busy doing stuff and…my saw went down at a very in opportune time. Also, you can see how the rod bends slightly in the center, and a bolt in the center of would have removed that. It is a sold table though and does not move when performing task. Also, instead of having to place legs in the front, I just place 5/8” nuts inside front supports and screwed the leftover rods into them. It tightens up nicely and has been no issue.
