Question, dialing in my 3d carves I have found that I keep getting bit marks (small divots). I have tried different tapered ball nose bits with different speeds and feeds. Using 8% step over. I’m using a QCW for the foreman and my only guess is that the vibration causing the QCW to shake is causing these issues. Coming from a Shapeoko I was getting far better finishes. Any ideas on how to stabilize the QCW more or what may be causing th
If it was vibration from the qcw, wouldn’t it all vibrate together. I think its an issue with pine, but I’ve never 3d carved pine as my go-to is cherry
I agree with Chris regarding pine. That’s a really soft wood. But aside from that, I think your carve looks great! I really doubt many folks would notice any imperfections that only a skilled craftsman would catch. 
Its cherry that im using. I had a shapeoko prior too this and they were flawless, i may be running to fast at 200IPM
hmm - without bit details, RPMs and calculated chip load -it is hard to judge.
But most tapered ball nose bits are “slow bits” unless it is like the Amana 0.10 degree “straight angle ball” which is spec’ed for up to 250 IPM’ish at 18.000 RPM.
Most of my other Amana tapered ball bits needs 35-60 IPM @ 18.000 RPM.
So read the bit specs and see if you can match them to your machine.
Ok. I based on my assumption on color and grain because that’s all I have to go by.
Since we’re throwing darts in the dark, I did see where someone added strength to the legs with a metal L bracket for shelves found at the home store, if you think table wiggle is the issue
