Hey guys, I’m going to install drag links on my 1FINITY Journeyman (once it ships! ) and I need to know exactly what I need to make new cables. I’ve searched online but unless you know exactly which Molex parts you need, it’s a bit confusing. I also read in the comments on a YT video for the upgrade that there were two different sized Molex connections.
So if someone doesn’t mind helping me out, I’ll be in your debt.
You can order extension cables direct from onefinity. They will ship with you machine even if you order the cables after you ordered your machine and your machine hasn’t shipped yet.
I would prefer not to have connectors located inside the tracks, so I would rather fab up some new cables. I’m most likely going to have to replace the power cord on the router as well, which is fine as I’ll be incorporating an E-Stop for the spindle any ways.
If you want water cooling hoses later too, I suggest a profile of at least 15x40.
Emergency Stop
An Emergency Stop for a spindle is NEVER between spindle and VFD. This is written in the first pages of every VFD manual, even in the cheap Huanyang VFD manual!
An Emergency Stop for a spindle would not power off the VFD either, but activate one of the Intelligent Terminals on the VFD which you would have programmed to serve as ISO 13849-1 Safety Inputs, or similarly programmed to initiate the spindle stop command. You can wire an Emergency stop switch directly to the VFD, or make use of a ISO 13849 Safety relay such as a Omron G9SE (datasheet), wired as follows:
Thank you for the safety diagram. I purchased a Jocab RT6 and installed it in my enclosure for future proofing. It is part of my current safety circuit, but I had planned to use it with my spindle/VFD, which I now bought earlier than expected. Your diagram is helpful, and perhaps the connections will be similar to the Hitachi WJ200 series VFD - still trying to track down a supplier for the variant I need. Always appreciate your fulsome contributions.
Well I found the proper Molex pins and connectors but they seem to be out of stock at both Mouser and Digi. Thought I’d post the part numbers here for anyone looking for them as well.
I ended up finding some Molex connectors at amazon. Hopefully they are the correct ones. I also purchased an Iwiss crimper. The commenters in review section said these work with the connectors I purchased. Also ended up getting 18 awg wire as I couldn’t find shielded stranded 20 awg conductor wire.
Hello Rob:
I am interested in how the new cables turned out. I purchased some of the 1F extension cables but found there must be a crossover as they will work on the X axis but not the Z axis. Now I have decided to fab new cables without the connecter inside the drag chain. Do you happen to know the pin out of the cables. I can’t seem to find it online.
I thought I would point this out as well if anyone here is 3D printing their own brackets for the dragchain rails.
If you are using muddyfoot’s files from thing verse, you will need to replace two of his prints with modified versions from JimAlex on thingverse (search “X-50 OneFinity CNC”). I can not confirm this physically as I am still waiting on my machine, but I read that the original parts interfere with the rails.
I’m still trying to get these parts printed out successfully as I am new to 3D printing (borrowed my daughters Ender 3) and struggling to find the right printer settings.
Pricey for such few connectors. I have the same crimper and it works fine. Just be mindful that there are different pins for different wire gauges so figure out what wire gauge you plan to use first and then get the appropriate pins to match. I got my parts from digikey.
The pins I used are for 18ga wire. Looking through Digikey’s website, it seems the WM13070CT-ND is OOS but you can probably use a different connector such as Molex 0430300039 which is a bit more expensive because it’s gold-plated instead of tin.
I think I’ve found some descent settings. I just printed two of the spacers, which was a 15hr print and with only minutes remaining, it looks to be perfect.
Biggest problem I was having was orienting the parts correct for slicing. I just printed them as they were… didn’t turn out that well to say the least.