Holy Gee Whiz WTF!

Well then… that pretty much explains the title of this thread.

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I was trying to say that fraction of inch is normally expressed in 1/8th 1/16 so on. If you are removing .1 that’s a lot of material for surfacing removed from the spoil board. You probably removed a lot of material and the bit reached the QCW frame , or the z probe was probably off

It’s 1/10 of an inch. 2.54mm. 1/8 is 3.175mm

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I run pocket program. Touch off on surface, run program. I take two pocket passes at .025 per pass.

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It was the very first time the router was used, but it did check it and it was clean. I have read about this on this forum before.

Thanks for reiterating it, I had to think if I looked at it but I did, Great Advice!!

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My new router arrives today and I was thinking the same thing by using the step function on the machine and surfacing manually. I know it sounds long and tedious but hey I am a newbie and this will be my 2nd try on surfacing.

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I used the red button to HOLD the bit in place then finish with the wrenches I tighten down

are there collects that perform better than the Makita collets? Where can I purchase them?
I think my bit slipped down as it turned.

Hey Dan,

as long as you use the Makita hand trim router, you have to use these proprietary collets that come with them. Just as the router itself, this has many disadvantages:

If you want to have ER collets, you will have to switch to using a spindle instead of the hand trim router. This has not only the advantage that it is a different type of motor, but also avoids using the hand trim router which is not allowed for use in a stationary machine (as per the manual – and Makita confirmed that as soon that you mount the hand router into a CNC machine, its warranty is lost) and by the type of motor that it is, gets hot and can start to burn if overloaded. And using a surfacing bit or any other bit larger than 1/2" is already a mechanical overloading – it’s always when using large surfacing bits that people make their Makita to burn [1]. You can find many reports of Makita burning in this forum [2], [3]

Spindles unfortunately require frequency-variable three-phase electricity which means, you need a VFD. However, spindles are induction motors, which are the workhorse in industry, with their high efficiency and longevity. See also Comparision of router to spindle.

ER collets are also found on what I call Best milling motor solution for hobbyists and semiprofessionals, which would mean being able to use so-called 43 mm “Euro” mount milling motors that are universal motors that don’t need a VFD, but have ER collets, an all-steel motor flange, and are approved for use in a CNC, like AMB (former Kress), the Suhner, and the Mafell. They have a speed control interface too, which allows their speed to be controlled by g-code.

Unfortunately you can not (yet) mount such a motor into the Onefinity at the moment, but it is a feature requested here.

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There is an alternative. I have no experience with these but others here have.


Hey Atroz,

thanks for posting the link. I think it was already mentioned in the depths of the forum. Here you obviously get more diameters choice for your bits shank.

But I don’t think that these replacement collets change anything on the main disadvantage, i.e. that they clamp the shank only in the front part of collet.

By the way, outside of the U.S. and Canada, the Makita hand trim router is sold with collets for 6 and for 8 mm bit shanks.

Also outside the U.S., you don’t seem to get the old RT0700C model without restart-preventing safety function anymore. The new RT0702C is the new model everwhere, which would need the hack to work with being switched on by a relay (and thus, with the Onefinity). I wonder when Makita will replace the U.S. model RT701C finally by this new model. After all, a device that restarts by itself after a power failure when power comes back is a serious safety risk (when used as it is intended to, as a hand router)

I don’t know how much better they are but by looking at the picture it looks to be the same type

They are. They’re just available as spare parts & in different shank sizes. I have a couple of sets (they’re cheap to keep for spares) and it was easier to get them from Elaire than Makita.

Just wanted to let everyone know that after installing new spoilboard and getting a new router i used the masso conversational programing wizard. Used the rectangle pocket wizard and it worked really well. I read on another page about removing the router cord out of the wire chain thingy so I did and connected it to a seperate plug. I also moved the round magnetic thing that is on the router cord for EMF closest to the router. That being said I started at .04 for one pass and worked great!! I continually edited the program by adding another .04, then .08 and so on until my final pass of .172

I am so proud of myself!!

I want to thank everyone on this forum for the support, the guidance, and information, YOU ARE ALL AMAZING!!!


Now I will protect with polyurethane and then I am set to begin making more mistakes!!!


Thank again everybody

The ‘magnetic thing’ that was on the router power cord is not for EMI, it’s a security tag that makes the big box alarms go off when you try to steal it. You can go ahead and remove that :stuck_out_tongue:

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Glad you got it Dan. Enjoy your new machine. I really like mine.


I know that you have already marked this thread as solved, but I have a worthy mention. I have the Makita router (purchased individually and not part of the CNC). I’m pretty anal-retentive with tool care and I’ve had that thing throw a bit at me while cutting. Clean shanks without oil or corrosion, no dust that I was aware of, and I always use both wrenches to tighten the bit. I significantly reduced the usage of that machine with the factory collet.

I have a Milwaukee palm router with a much better collet and have never had an issue. The same is true for my Festool router and my router table, all which have collets more similar to an ER collet.

While I’m not going to contribute to your specific solution, I want to share for others that stumble on the thread that bit slippage is real and I’ve had issues specifically with the Makita collet. Throwing the bit at me caused me to mostly shelve that router unless I used it with extreme paranoia.

@ryans1 suggestion to mark a slippage line is spot-on.


Same issue here with slipping. Using wrenches, blowing dust out, cleaning collet, etc. Have went through 2 collets and on my third. This is the major reason I have a spindle on order from PWNCNC.

Glad you’re on your way. Believe me, you will ruin many projects in your journey, for many reasons. And some will evade explanation. Keep at it. It’s a slow burn.

My starter machine used the Makita and I had tons of issues with it due to the router moving, the wooden frame (Bobs CNC) and very commonly, the bit slipping down. It’s insanely susceptible to saw dust and you need to get in the habit of cleaning it out every time you set a bit, either by knocking it, removing it and banging it or with air. I’ve ruined many projects with bit slip. Pay attention to the bit length for reference so you have a fighting chance of spotting it when things go wrong.

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