Hello I’m new here. I recently purchased my Elite Gen 2 Journeyman and I really like the machine.
I have the machine installed with QCW and the entire assembly is placed on a flat surface. At this point, what’s the right way to replace the waste board (as I eventually will need to)? The whole assembly is super heavy and I simply cannot move it an inch, let alone lift it up. It’s literally held down by gravity.
Also - even IF I somehow manage the lift the machine up, I will still need to secure the waste board from bottom, correct? anyway I can change this?
Others should jump in here, but I would think you’ll need to adopt a “secured from above” strategy for your waste boards. I hate to think what that means for you if the machine is already fully assembled.
Mine is on the heavy duty stand so replacement is pretty straight forward underneath, but I’m also using the QCW slats as the machine bed with additional movable “waste boards” mounted on top (double layered).
I like your idea, which would minimize the need to climb under the machine to unscrew the spoil boards. Are you using a large 1-piece spoil board over the slats, or just a second set of spoil boards so you can still use the T slots? How are you securing the top set of spoil boards?
You can use threaded inserts and furniture screws (or other flathead bolts) and washers.
Create a toolpath to drill holes through your installed slats. Holes should be slightly smaller than threaded inserts. The inserts should have instructions on how are the holes should be.
Use CNC to drill holes through the slats.
Jog spindle to rear, then tilt QCW frame up/back.
Install threaded inserts from the bottom of slats.
Put frame back down.
Place full sheet of spoiler board on the machine, then drill the holes and counter bores.
Screw down the new spoiler board.
Cut channels for T-slots.
Here is a pic of how I attached mine to my table (no QCW).
I almost forgot to mention to save the toolpath so you can drill the holes for future replacement. You can also put them at easy/consistent increments (ie. 3,3; 3,6; 3,9;… 6,3; 6,6; …) so it’s easy to recreate the toolpath later.
Tommy’s secure from above method is a sound one for sure.
My actual spoil boards are of multiple shapes (depends on the cutting job). Most of the time I’m using slats while other times it is different sizes of MDF that I screw the work piece to. I have threaded inserts in each slat of the machine base along with the t-slots to secure them.
Currently there are only one partial set of slats and one other large MDF chunk. Most of my work is more “artsy” stuff often with uneven shaped material though so it might not be a good option for everyone.
Thanks! I’m starting to think this might be my only option… I just failed another attempt to lift up the whole assembly, it felt as if it was bolted on the table
this is a great idea! but I’m stuck at step 3. Whole assembly is way too heavy for me to lift. Do you think if I install the threaded insert from the top, it’ll also work?
My threaded inserts are installed from the top, but my table is Baltic Birch. I suggested you secure from the bottom because the MDF is softer. But now that I think of it, you shouldn’t have to screw down the top board very tightly since you’re just keeping it from moving side to side.
The Onefinity installation video sure made it look easy to lift up the front end and tilt it back.
It shouldn’t be that difficult to tip it up. Did you get the factory blocks with the cutout arcs? If you run the Y-axis all the way to the back you should be able to tip the machine up and insert them under the back rail. The machine may go over center as it tips back, I made this fixture for the stiffy rail to sit in.
From watching the official videos, I was convinced it shouldn’t be that difficult to tip it up. But reality is: I can’t get full assembly moving a tiny bit. Now - maybe there’s a significant weight difference between Gen 1 and Gen 2? Also - my QCW did not arrive with the blocks (contradicting from the official videos)
I then rewatched the videos and noticed all of the “lifting it up to replace waste board” video are done using the woodworker version. Perhaps it’s easier for smaller assemblies?
Indeed it is. The bigger machines are heavy. Really heavy. And your lifting position is awkward as you’re trying to lift those hundreds of pounds from waist level with just your arms.
When I had my QCW I had the screw from the top version they used to sell because the Journeyman was to heavy to safely & controllably lift. The Foreman is bigger & much heavier. Those 50mm tubes are not light
I use an electric winch from Harbor Freight to lift my Elite Foreman.
Yes when you watch the Onefinity videos on how to change the qcw (under mount) it does look easy…but…
My machine (woodworker) has the stiffy bar: the 2.2kw water cooled spindle; extra hardware to accommodate the water lines and the overhead dust collection. Plus, while I have access to all three sides, the machine is against the back wall. That means with all the extra stuff on the machine I cannot tilt it back without moving it forward. The machine sits on a support table that nearly matches the foot print of the machine, so moving it forward would mean its hanging off the front edge. And finally, I’m a one man shop. There’s no way I can handle the weight safely. No worries though as I have come up with an “easy” solution to change the qcw by one person…still a bit of work but far easier.
The partial solution is in SailorMikes response when he talks about the fixture he made to tilt the machine. Don’t use the factory blocks to do this. I’m currently doing my second change out using this procedure, by myself, with blocks that I have 3D printed.
Briefly… I printed a set of blocks that look very familiar to the factory supplied blocks. They are specifically sized to raise the entire machine by a couple inches from the SIDES of the machine NOT the back. Move the gantry to the center to balance the weight. Using a lever like a 2x2 piece of wood and block, from under a Y rail, slowly raise the machine until you can insert one of the blocks on either side of the gantry. You now have the gantry centered, the machine raised and supported by the two blocks on one side, the machine is on a slight angle raised off the table. Do the same thing to the opposite side. Now you have a fully raised machine, on four blocks. Place support under the raised qcw to prevent it from dropping or putting any twisting pressure on the machine frame. There are four bolts for each leg of the qcw. You can now unscrew these and the qcw will be free, and you can now slide the entire qcw out from under the machine. Your machine is now “floating” on these four blocks. Once you’ve changed the waste boards out, simply reverse the process and your done. If you don’t have a 3D printer it shouldn’t be a problem to make them out of wood.
Good Luck
[NjB]
PS: I’ve added some photos of my first change out. One thing I will note though, since the machine is now sitting on “stilts” I was extra careful not to bump the machine in any way so as to preserve the overall alignment. You may want to check after if you do this but my first cut after the change out was just fine without any re-alignment needed.
I’ve just finished my second replacement of the waste board using this method and it went quite well. With the slats pre cut, this whole process took me under 2 hours to replace and be ready for resurfacing. On a couple final notes, 6 blocks, 3/side, are really essential since you do have to slide them out of the way to get the qcw out. It should go without saying that care must be taken here since your machine is elevated. Especially when leveraging the machine up. It will want to shift.These are a few shots from the recent change out.
You might be able to use something like 4 Dewalt Toughseries Construction Jacks (can handle 340 lbs, $119 each at HomeDepot) or Irwin Quick Lifts (can handle 330 lbs, $73.95 each at Amazon) instead of the blocks. You should be able to use these to lift, hold and lower the rails. You can ratchet each one up just a bit in turn until they’re high enough; you can also ratchet them down in a similar fashion. I don’t have a QCW and haven’t tried this, so I don’t know if this will work. Clearly this is an expensive solution, but you could probably find cheaper lifts, and I have found the Irwin’s generally useful.
