How to set zero somewhere other than bottom left

@OnefinityCNC @MyersWoodshop I was gearing up for my first cuts today on the Myers threaded wasteboard. I really liked that on my last machine, and im not sure how i feel about the V2 concept. Anyways, not important.

SO I homed the machine but then I couldn’t figure out how to set the middle of the board to be my zero. I tried hitting the 0 button next to the home button but that didn’t seem to do the trick.

I tried setting home manually at that point, but it then limited my movement because it recognized that as the home position and didn’t let the machine travel any further left or down.

Eventually I just set the wasteboard zero location in the file to bottom left. That seemed to work, but i will need to know how to set random points as zero for future projects im sure.

the program needs to be set to use the center as zero also. I’m not sure if that program is configured for bottom left or center.

To set zero, after Homing, just jog your x and y to the position you want it to be in, and click the 0 button with a line through it on the x line and the y line. That will set they x and y positions.


@OnefinityCNC The file was created in Carbide Create, the file was created with the zero point in the middle.

I tried the 0 with a line through it as that seemed like the logical thing to do. However the Y line would never change. the X line changed to show a zero point but Y did not.

Sorry, this would be something I could experiment with but I’m not scheduled to get my unit until November.

So my question is can zero be set as a specific offset from eather home or some fixed point I’ve zeroed to?
This becomes very important when doing two sided work, typically one would put zero in the middle and then mill out a dowel hole so that the peice can be flipped perfectly.

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The OneFinity is capable of doing all those things but the controller does not have the programing for them other than to zero just the Z axis or all three. I was experimenting with zeroing methods today and was able to zero to a circle, zero to the right corner as well as the left and any offset location that the machine is capable of reaching. Not trying to blow my own horn but I am probably more familiar with zero codes, stratagies, and tricks than your average hobby cnc user. But then again I have been making and selling touch plates for about 4 years now.

For two sided carvings, something like a guitar body, I like to zero to the left front corner of a fixed position on the machine with the part at a fixed point on the X and Y axis. You only need to insure that the alignment is constant when you flip it.

If you are starting out with square or rectangular stock it is even easier. The only requirement at that point is that the most forward edge remain attached and that it is aligned perfectly with the X axis travel. Then when you flip the part, it doesn’t matter where you put it as long as you keep the reference edge aligned with the X axis travel. It can be closer to or farther from the front of the machine and even shifted to the right or left as needed. Then for zeroing, you set your origin in your design software to the right corner for the back side of the part instead of the left which is used for the front… Everything in your design will always be a fixed distance from the reference edge/corner which is what we are following when we flip the part and move the touch plate to the right side vs the left side for the front. The use of bump stops really helps to keep the alignment straight when flipping the part.

You can see where I have a framing square clamped down and used as a bump stop for the jig I used today to engrave some OneFinity Touch Plates. They turned out perfect don’t you think!! Aside from surfacing the waste board last night, this was the first real carve with my OneFinity. What an AMAZING machine!!!



I had to stop and reread several of your lines to get it because this is something better described in pictures. I do understand what you mean though and sounds great.
I still want to be able to zero to a fixed zero in the center of the stock though. Makes life so much easier when you work 4 sides.
Worse comes to worse I can always insert a carving bit to drive to a zero point and then zero.
My eyes are getting kind of old for such. :rofl:

What you are asking is easy to achieve. When the touch plate is probed the software knows how far it is from the edge of the touch plate to the edge of the material and how far away the center of the bit is when it makes contact with the touch plate. With these two values it calculates the offset distance to get the bit centerline over the edge of the material. Then it applies that offset with a G92 command. After which it moves to the next axis and does the same thing with those particular values. After probing is completed your machine knows where X Y Z zero is located regardless of its current position. This is exactly what you are wanting to do just in the wrong direction and wrong distance. You just need to change the distance and direction of the offset to get it where you want it. You probably won’t be able to do that by adjusting the default zeroing codes. However you can load a zeroing file just like a carving file and send it just like a carving file and works like a charm.

Okay now I’ll probably need additional tutelage when the time comes. I understand what you mean in theory but not necessarily in practice.
The good news is that I like to futz around with things like this.

Okay, combine this with what you have said in another thread… G92 is an absolute move, got it. Now is there a g code for resetting your current position to zero?
If so I’ve got this.

Yup, it’s is the G92 command. Here are some examples:

G92 X0 This will set your X axis current location to zero.
G92 X10 This will set your X axis current location to X 10
G92 X0Y0Z0 This will set all three axis to zero or any other value you replace the zero with.


Okay I didn’t have it but I do now, G92 doesn’t move your gantry but instead changes the reference!
So aft the lines that run the zero routine you add G92 with the proper positive or negative numbers and your zero has changed. Right?

And the winner is…

The G92 command is passed each time the touch plate stops when making contact with the touch palte because that is a known location for that axis of movement.


were trying to do same thing , after homing we job it to were start is going to be fin work piece but after file runs it stays at end position and not go back to were we started what do we need to do to get this, we tried the 0 with line for x and y and still stayed at end of program file were it finished and not go back to were we started cnc

the 0 with the line through it is where you set your zero. the dot in the center of the X+X-Y+Y- buttons will RETURN your machine to the xy zero you set earlier with the 0 with a line through it.


do you have to clip dot to return home each time or is their a way to set this automatically after each tool path is complete

Here is my solution to zeroing to an alternate location. It will be ready to release in the next few day. For now here is a sneak peak.


As a Beta tester for Charley’s program, I can say its a must have tool for your toolbox. You can set your 0 very quickly, easily and repeatably. It also provides the ability to have your OF finish the carve and move to to a different location automatically, allowing you to easily unclamp your work, the hit Zero and it comes back to 0.0.

The software can facilitate zeroing off of the front right corner of your project as well as zero off of circular stock as well.

Added benefits :crazy_face:

  • Laser zeroing
  • Metric and imperial dimension capability
  • Decimal to fraction calculator
  • Amazing support from Charley

Very excited for Charley to launch the Toolbox, you guys are going to love it!



Looks great Charley! Will be very helpful to a lot of us!


Cant wait to try this out,nice one Charley

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When will it be available?