Journeyman Table

[Aiph5u (Aiph5u (not affiliated with Onefinity))]

Hey Bill,

@Machinist

It’s funny, as I was reading this (as I have read about this method in the past when you posted about it), my mind immediately thought of fine, bare copper wire stretched in an ‘X’ across the corners of the table, supported just off the table surface by an equal amount at each corner. Then a very simple circuit that utilizes the wires as a switch of sorts. Then adjusting one foot to ensure separation of the wires, and slowly adjusting that foot until the light just starts to flicker on. I mention this as something that could be easily done by one person, and (in my case) would be more reliable than visually trying to gage the gap in the fishing line.

Bill this is great! Don’t you fear publishing this here before you patented it?

I would take a guitar string as copper is very soft and can break.

[Machinist (Bill Blades)]

@Aiph5u

I would take a guitar string as copper is very soft and can break.

Good idea! And for even finer accuracy, the ‘upper’ wire supports would be shimmed up by the diameter of the wires. Otherwise, there would be a built-in twist in this method, if both wires were supported at the same exact height. Of course, you’d be splitting hairs at this point, but the theory is solid.

I may actually try this method once we get moved and I set up the new shop.

[GarageRat (Larry)]

In my case, the double layer of MDF was necessary because I have an Elite Journeyman with a Z20 Z-Slider that should be mounted with a spindle. I am using a Makita router at the moment and it won’t otherwise reach the spoil board surface. When I eventually replace the router with a spindle, the second layer of MDF will not longer be necessary.