So, the wife wants me to make drink coasters for the house. I have a CNC, no problem! Then she through a wrench in the plan. She wanted some kind of tile. The parameters she gave is that she didn’t want to have to worry about them getting scratched, or the design coming off if she wiped them down to clean them. Down the proverbial rabbit hole I went. First thought was engraving bits, then I remembered I saw a random video some time ago about using a laser on Tile. After playing around, and more than a few failed attempts, This is what I managed so far, still a prototype if you will.
I was going for the black and white look, but ended up with black, white, and silver. lol.
It won’t wipe off, even with lacquer thinner, and it wont scrape off with a paint scraper, or running the edge of my pocket knife back and forth over it. Not a great test I know, but it’s what I had. lol. If you have any interest in this, look for Norton White Tile method on you tube. The silver color I believe came about from using Krylon Fusion gloss white paint. The local stores have big empty spots where Rust-oleum (the brand most recommend for this), normally would be.
Tools: Onefinity CNC
JTech 7W laser
Software used: Lightburn.
Oh, and no the family name is not Heathen, though it might should be as often as my wife calls me that. I call my little shop Heathen WoodWorks. lol.
Very nice. I like the silver color if it looks as good in person as it does in the photo.
What color was the tile if you painted it white?
The tile is just a basic white tile 4"X4". I picked them up from Lowes. They were $0.15 apiece.
The idea, as I understand it, is that the zinc and or the titanium dioxide in the paint is what reacts with the laser. Basically an etching compound for it. This is just my limited understanding.
The steps that I used are;
- Clean tile, I just lacquer thinner. It’s what I have on hand. This cleans of any coating, or oils from handling.
- Paint the tile with one even light coat in one direction, rotate 90 degrees and repeat. This is just to make sure I didn’t miss any of the tile.
- After paint is dry, laser with chosen settings.
4.I used a little Lacquer thinner to clean all the paint off the tile, then washed in the kitchen sink with dish soap and warm water.
I did find some Rust-oleum cold galvanizing compound in a spray can that has a high zinc amount I am currently playing around with to see how it does, but for the photos I posted that was just Krylon Fusion gloss white.
Hope this helps.
Yes it does, thank you. Can’t wait to try this out once my 1F arrives and I get setup.
Very nice what were your lightburn settings on tile
I’ll have to double check later this evening and get back to you. I used three different settings to get the design to come out the way I wanted.
I would say to make sure you set up a speed/power test in Lightburn with what ever paint you are using before getting started. With that being said, here are the settings that I used with Kyrlon Fusion gloss white that is about a year old. lol.
Filigree = Speed 40 / Power 95%
Floral capital letter = Speed 35 / Power 95%
Lower case lettering = Speed 20 / Power 95%
This process is not fast by any means. At least not at my current, very low, knowledge level. lol.
Hope this helps.
Almost forgot. I did not set this up as a photo. I did a trace image for the filigree, then typed in the font.
I used LINE for the filigree and capital letter. Then, Fill setting for the lower case lettering.
Thank you again sir I will be giving it a shot tomorrow plan on making tile coasters for my pastor’s wife with all her kids names and her dogs appreciate it God bless
Thought I would give a go at making in darker, and filling in the uppercase letter. To be honest I think I like the first way better. lol.
Yeah I’m with you. The first one looks better to me also.
I believe thievery is fine as long as you’re honest about it therefore allow me to confess I’ve made two sets of coasters using your settings thank you very much
@GregoryG Awesome! Great to hear.
I have been playing around a bit and found that using the same paint, Rust-o oleum Fusion gloss white, that drying time plays a big part in the outcome of the tile. Tiles that are dry to the touch (about 30 minutes for me where I am) to about 5 hours will leave the silver look in the fill areas. Tiles allowed to dry longer or a full 24 hours come out darker in the fill areas. I imagine that if the settings for the filigree slowed down in might do the same there as well, but honestly I haven’t had the time to play with that yet.
As a note I grabbed the wrong paint today. Kyrlon Fusion Satin white. The letters came out with with a better silver color when they were done. I followed the same dry time for them as before.
So, had some time today to play around with a few settings using Lightburn to burn a couple of tiles.
Wasn’t too bad, so a tweaked a couple of setting and ran a second attempt with photo that had a little more detail.
All and all pretty happy with it. Looking at the photo posted here there are lines running in the X, but those do not show in person.
If anyone else would like to give something like this a go, I did these last two in Lightbun. For the wolf,
I used the Jarvis setting
Speed = 40
Power = 70
DPI was set at 289.
I ran across this YouTube video the other day. See what you think…
@OldNewbie This video sent me down a bit of a rabbit hole last night. lol. I had not seen or heard about this. Now that the tile coaster rush is over I’m going to have to give this a go. Thank you!
Let me know how it turns out. I don’t have a laser yet so I can’t try it myself.