Where are the tramming adjustment on the Elite machine? My spindle is a little bit out of square with my wasteboard and I can feel small ridges in the wasteboard after flattening. I’d love to adjust that to be spot on.
Thanks!
Front to back ridges, i don’t know, maybe they want you to loosen one screw then tighten the opposite side, and do to both sides…
But the left to right, just loosen 3 screw on the z20, and put a square down tighten another screw and use a tram mechanism of your choice
The product description says “Micro-tramming”, which makes me think there’s a more elegant method for making these adjustments. I’d like to use a dial indicator on a tramming arm to really get it spot on. I think that will require more precise adjustment than loosing the screws, moving it manually (coarsely) and then re-tightening the screws.
I think left to right the only thing to do is what i saud.
Put a square up to it and you’ll get it pretty close then fine tune from there
Hey Adam,
the tramming front to back of the Z assembly can be done either this way:
or like some forum members described, by loosening the Z assembly bolts and placing some layers of small aluminium foil pieces between the Z assembly and the X carriage block.
The tramming of left to right of Z assembly can be done this way:
By the way, the official tramming the router thread of this forum, that you could have found with the search function, is:
To my knowledge (please correct me if I’m wrong) there is no special Elite tramming:
Image 1: “Elite Micro Tramming” is the good ole Onefinity Standard Series Micro Tramming
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I used 123 blocks under the z after loosening the bolts, then i switched to the dial indicators, it was within .002 thou frt to back left to right. I never could micro tram it. I ended up loosening the x axis blocks and i think it was .010 shims in my case to get it right. I buy amazon feeler gauges and just use them for shimming, blocks and tramming arms shown below. Slow and tedious process, butwell worth it. The problem I have now is I’m reluctant to ever move the z axis
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Thanks for your help. This is what I needed. I searched the Elite forum, since I was looking for information on the Elite’s micro tramming feature. I didn’t realize it wasn’t specific to the Elite.
Hey Adam,
which is not surprising, they didn’t advertize the Onefinity Original Series with it, it was just to be found in the forum.
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Thanks CNC people. I’m squared away now.
I realise I’m a bit late to the party on this subject, but I didn’t think I had a front to back tramming issue until a long length of oak which is intended to be a doorstep. As I only have a 32 x 32 elite machine I’ve had to set the workpiece up diagonally across the bed, front left to rear right. Whilst flattening the workpiece from left to right and working from the front backwards with a 1 inch flattening bit, the tram lines at the front of the diagonal are not too bad but they get worse as the machine moves backwards and to the RHS.
Does this suggest that the right hand side needs more adjustment than the left?
I’ve looked at the micro adjustment as detailed in the post and I don’t understand fully. When I loosen the diagonally opposing screws, the opposite screws won’t tighten. Also, I have a stiffy and so I assume I just loosen the screws on the middle rail whilst adjusting the top an bottom rails and then just tighten the middle rail screws once it has found its own position?
To make things worse, there seems to be something in the hexagonal socket of one of the rear stiffy rail screws. I noticed it when I first assembled the machine but didn’t bother too much as I thought I’d never need to loosen it!
I’ve looked for YouTube videos but they tend to be about right to left tramming.
Sorry its a long post, but any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ken
Never try to adjust 2 axis’s simultaneously, and isolate the axis before anything else. Shim the Y and micro adjust the X. If doing the X, do onto the right what you do on the left or else that’s a twist which is what it sounds like you have.
You should surface your wasteboard just before attempting to tram to get an accurate pic of where it is.
It could also be all 4 feet are not level with each other. I’m a master craftsman (sarcasm) (i also bought the construction grade materials for my table at the home store) and there are so many shims on my table. I had to glue a ½" piece of mdf to my table, surfaced that, then put my wasteboard on top, otherwise every new wasteboard would require ¼"+ to be removed. It’s only stupid if it doesn’t work.
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