First, I did this whole thing solo. I watched all the videos, and while they seem to be close, they are not 100% accurate unless I missed a newer one or something which is quite possible. Also, this in no way is me complaining. If anything, its maybe suggestions to make it even easier for others. First, it would be helpful to label what screws went where even with simple numbers and stickers. Alot of the boxes seemed to have various pieces parts in them. I was able to figure out where they went by very closely watching the videos and without incident, but also I took my time on this. Someone putting this together quickly could miss this stuff. Tip 1, I used the boxes of the X, Y, Z axis’ as a platform to assemble the top frame with t-tracks. This raise it off the ground and since the boxes are all the same size, worked out perfectly. Second, I asked a previous question about how close do the MDF boards need to match the widths in the manual, and the answer is close enough, but perfection is not necessary. As in 1/8th off isnt a deal and neither is honestly 1/4, but thats probably about the max. On mine, there were alot of the screws already put in place into the QCW frame as place holders, but in the videos it shows them in bags. Again, not a big deal, but as a newbie, it made me nervous that I was doing something wrong or missing something. After I assembled the top part and put in the MDF slats, this next tip worked out great. I used a folding table, put the top on it, and it was basically the same height as the legs. So I was able to attach all the legs solo. The videos I watched for the stiffy supports/etc are tailored to adding them on I thank to an older version, and as a brand new model, mine did not match the video. Specifically, on the bolts that hold it to the bottom, they are not made for 15mm bolts, but a smaller size, which was in a bag which were 4mm hex bolts pre-threaded. I figured it out because it was the only one that fit and threaded into the holes. When installing the bottom frame supports, you can use the small boxes to support them as they happen to be exactly the correct height. One last thing, on ONE of the legs the stiffy pre-installed bolts were backwards, and I had to check, double check, triple check that I didn’t put one of the legs on backwards, and I didn’t. It scared me being a newbie. That all being said, this stand is ROCK SOLID and it almost perfectly level all ways without me having to mess with it at all, which is really impressive. Take that IKEA! Check out the pictures I uploaded and let me know if you have any questions or comments about all this. I tried to proof this post as best I could to have it make sense. Thanks all everyone for all the tips and things. Next up is the x,y,z and wiring/etc.
Thanks for sharing your experience, more of us might consider posting progress too… including me.
All of the 1F equipment is very straight forward in construction and have the most thought out designs I’ve seen.
Really nice and helpful information. The only issue I have is, I don’t have a nice clean area to setup my machine and be able to walk around it 
. I hope to have my machine by the end of May, and I will be checking back here to gain the experience of a seasoned DIY builder. Good luck with the rest. This actually inspires me to use my GoPro and record my assembly process.
ha ha I might have a solution for that. Kinda proud of it and its perfect I think for getting started and getting your feet wet and then deciding on your next move. Will hopefully have time to post another thread on progress this weekend.
Looks great. Can’t wait to see the machine on there!
Well, I’m trying to understand how to put it together. Unfortunately, my stand and QCW will arrive about 2 weeks after the basic mill is delivered - so the mill is just in the way until I have something to build it on – Disappointed.
The “Installation and Operation Instructions
QCW (Quick Change Wasteboard) Frame - Foreman Version”
manual has instructions for “Waste Board Installation: Secure from Beneath” ??!!??
I was certain my QCW was supposed to be attach the MDF slats from above, but there are no instructions nor dimensions. Where is that manual?
Also, instead of “maximizing” the material from a 4x4 sheet of MDF, how about a plan to cut slats from the standard size I can buy of 49" x 97"? Home Depot does not sell half sheets, which would still not be 48x48". I would like to maximize the amount of work area on the mill.
And I agree with Rumor that the parts/boxes need labeled. Plus ferrites should be used at least on the high-power cable or be shielded. VFD systems have a long history of throwing off a lot of high-freq EMI.
Also, that diagonal brace is done oddly. By attaching to the lower cross bar, the rigidity is reduced vs directly attaching the brace to the leg. I don’t understand why that was done. It also interferes with the storage space.
I really want to eliminate the back lower cross bar since my wood storage is on a cart that I intend to roll under the machine. The diagonal brace complicates that setup if not actually nullify the whole approach.
BTW: the lower braces can be replaced with a plate (plywood) on the floor and trapping the leg “feet” in a box or use L-brackets. That allows rolling stuff under the mill.
The “New” manual omits it - do a google and you can find the old manual easy enough
I have also uploaded files to filefinity to have the CNC cut the holes and countersinks to attach from above - still currently waiting approval
Thanks, I’m looking forward to your model.
I plan for 20mm dog holes and threaded inserts as well - but I’ll wait until I do a bit more “Polishing” before i release those to the wild. Thise will be able to be done in place - i will release for all 3 sizes eventually as well.
Why did you select 20mm dog holes? I though most people were picking 19mm since it is the closest to 3/4 inch without the binding 18mm would cause.
Hello, if those files how to mount from above have been posted, please send a link! Thanks!
Because I don’t give 2 squirts about Imperial - my shop is 100% metric and their standard is 20mm - EVERYTHING in woodworking is based on metric and 32mm standards - ie 20mm holes spaced 96mm apart, 35mm hinge holes for cabinets - length of drawer slides etc…
Now that said, making a second set of plans for 19mm or 3/4" will take roughly 18 seconds if I take my time, so I can make both if needed
That probably won’t happen now - seems filefinity has a bunch of friggin rules - change this - oh you changed it - well now change that - we don’t like this
I don’t have time for that bullshit - i tried to get the foreman up at first and add the rest later - but now I guess I’ll have to wait until i get every file ready so it makes more sense to some dude “Reviewing” it, even though it will make my work a TON harder - I don’t need that headache
Wow so much action here, made me realize I havnt posted current state photos. Also I hope someday to even get good enough to attempt to post files on filefinity honestly. Thanks WmHippie for attempting. I know its a new site so I am sure it will improve (yeah I am an IT guy). After posting this I am going to look for peeps that did vertical mounts for like cutting dovetails and things. I think its possible with the QCW if you did a slot from front to back. Just ideating at this point.
Everything is United States Customary System (USCS) in the USA. I would appreciate the option for 19mm dogholes since I have a collection of dogs and holddowns in 3/4inch.
BTW: 32mm is outgrowth of postwar WWII gang drilling that couldn’t space closer than 30mm. So 32mm was chosen because it is 1-1/4" USCS inches.