It depends on what you’re doing, for many things I will use the top but when cutting through materials like plywood where the thickness varies I will usually use the wasteboard for zero so I don’t cut into the wasteboard.
Conversely if you are v-carving something it makes the most sense to use the top of the material.
It appears to be a communication problem when trying to use the web interface.
Long story short, I fried the original touchscreen (dumb aussie - I can lift heavy weights, but not so smart) so then temporarily set up a monitor off my desktop. Then set up the network on the 1F & presto i could control via my laptop.
Set about doing some test files & thats when the problems started. In the end i couldnt even connect off laptop so went & bought another monitor & wireless kb/mouse.
Set all up & Bobs ya uncle.
Shame cos i liked the prospect of doing everything on the laptop & then taking it out to shed & away i go.
Thanks for all the input & potential solutions.
Perhaps Onefinity support could look into this, as whats the point of network connectivity if its going to wig out when used.
I don’t know if it was the cause, but if on the original touch monitor, you connected the USB-C port that serves as power input by mistake to the Onefinity CNC controller (instead of connecting it to the wall power adapter), the monitor will be fed by the internal Raspberry Pi 3 instead, and this power suction could overload the Raspberry Pi.
It should be noted that the Raspberry Pi 3 inside the Onefinity Controller does not provide USB 3.0 ports (which provide higher current according to USB 3.0 specification), only USB 2.0 ports. By the USB 2.0 standard, in theory each of the CNC controller’s USB ports should be able to supply 100 mA in low power mode and a USB 2.0 device is allowed by the standard to draw up to 500 mA if it requests higher power modes from the USB host, however as a USB host, the Raspberry Pi 3 can only provide 1200 mA total current to USB peripherals.
Also the USB standard stipulates that devices initially start in low-power mode (100 mA or 150 mA) and, in the event of higher current requirements, first request this from the host before switching to normal mode. With USB 2.0 this can be up to four more times 100 mA, with USB 3.0 up to five more times 150 mA. If this request fails, the device must shut down. However, many devices only use the USB ports as a power source without asking, and violate the USB standard by drawing more than 100mA of current without permission from the host. In extreme cases, this could damage the USB port of the host or mess up the computer’s energy management, which can lead to unstable behavior.
Note that if a Raspberry Pi gets too hot, it can become destabilized too. Since on the Onefinity CNC controller, the Raspberry Pi is enclosed together with the controller AVR/stepper drivers mainboard and a power supply with a 60 mm fan into a case which is ventilated only by a smaller fan, be sure to allow enough air to access both input and output of controller’s air flow and make sure you operate it inside the allowed temperature range of 4.4 °C – 43.3 °C.
Thanks for the info, but frying the monitor was all on me. Lets just say that it came us a US power plug & I had what i thought was a compatible AU one, but alas is wasnt & pop went the screen. My own fault as i couldnt quite make out the power info on the supplied one (that little text of those things is infuriating) & bingo!!! It was wrong. I had planned on upgrading the screen anyway so just meant sooner rather than later.
What is annoying though was the issues with regard to using the laptop via network connection.
I had just upgraded my laptop so was hoping that avenue of control would have been more workable.
If you are new to all of this my advice is to start off simple. It’s a steep learning curve and when you have a problem trying to isolate it can be very frustrating. If you haven’t got a replacement touch screen that’s what I would do. Worry about network connectivity after you get a few cuts done.
When you zero out X,Y, and Z (or even just one) look at the screen and see if it makes sense. By this I mean is manually move the router to where you think zero should be. If the numbers on the screen for each position aren’t zero then there’s a problem. If you are using the touch probe try it once more.
You can do it manually if you want, the joypad is useful for this. You don’t have to get it perfect, just close. Now move the 1f in all 3 directions and then move it back to where you set it to zero. Again, it doesn’t have to be perfect. What you are looking for is that the zeros are all set and not changing for some reason.
Sounds like you figured it out but it’s just a sanity check that I still do right before I turn on the router/ spindle. You are going to make lots of mistakes along the way. It’s the ones you make that you know better but just forgot to do that get really frustrating. Before you know it you’ll be doing just fine.
Excitement probably got the better of me, its been a long 12 week wait since ordering so, like i said after cooking the small monitor was hoping the wifi to laptop would suffice in the interim.
Had some good results, albeit, learning results over the week end, so i’ll keep on keeping on