Okay so what the heck am I doing wrong here then?

Hi guys!

I need some help from all you experts out there, please!..

So I am doing my first tray for someone (not a paid job or anything), but gosh! I must have dialed my setting in incorrectly because this job is going to take almost 8 hours to do. (This is Acacia btw)

I did not notice that until I started wondering why this is taking so bloody long. I only finished the 4 pockets on the bottom side of this board before stopping. Still had another 3 and a half hours to go after this.

So I dont know, is this how long things generally take or have I got some setting that I can change to make this go quicker? I kind of see the point in rather making a template and clearing it out with a bigger router or something. Anyway! This is what Im working on. Also, I have to change some settings (but what) because Im getting burn marks by the look of it!

Check that ETA! Almost 8 hours. How can anyone make money from something like this if it takes that long. There must be something one can do here…?

And this is the file Im working on with the settings and the bit Im using:

This is the bit Im using:

The 4 pockets I did so far are 3.9 inch x 3.9 inch x 0.47 inches deep.

Soooo, I really hope there is something I can do to make this a lot easier and quicker? Im sure some of you are looking at this and laughing your backsides off, and to be honest, I will probably too in a few months time, so all good there! :slight_smile:

Thanks much in advance!!

You don’t need a step over that small for a bit with such a flat nose for starters.

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Thanks for your reply!

I changed the step over to 30% for that bit and it made a huge difference. Also increased the feed rate slightly and I seem to have less burn marks too. Still needs a bit of work though.

For now it’s me and 1F support again because my machine is playing up again with it just stalling and losing it’s orientation for whatever reason. Soooo annoying. Done one extra pocket and tried to do another pass 0.4mm deeper to remove the marks from the wider step over and it just keeps losing it’s orientation (UNHOMED all axis).

Burn Marks: feed too low or speed to high. similar issue with surfacing bits.

Performance: try hogging out with a 1/4 inch flat bit leaving stock behind for the bowl bit to remove.


I have to check but I think I use a 70% step over for bowl bits. Definitely increase the step over and that should do it


Consider this for your roughing bit. I haven’t used one yet but supposedly it’s the bomb for that task!!


For what it’s worth, I use my bowl bit all the time for hogging out lots of material, but usually only if I’m already using that bit for the radius’d corners.

You might like to read/watch this:

From the bit product description:

Speeds & Feeds

This data serves as a general guidance only.

Spindle Speed: 16,000 RPM

Feed Rate: 120-150 IPM

Depth per Pass: 1/8″

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I am not an expert on this but I have done few pockets with the bowl bit, so being conservative, here are my 2cents:

  1. I would increase the Pass Depth to .1 or .125
  2. I would change the Stepover to 60%
  3. I would change the Feed Rate to 70

For that bit I use
3/16” doc
100 ipm
30% stepover

Stepover has to be less than 33% in order to not leave ridges


Hey Andy!

That’s what I thought as well. I just need to get my head around how to do that first! :yum:

Im thinking it is basically just setting up another toolpath with the different bit and setting the depth a little shallower hey?

What about the edges? Would you leave a bit there too or just remove that at the same time? If you remove that, do you leave a bit of material as well, like maybe with an offset inward?


Im using a Makita router so it only has the dial on top to regulate speed. I think I was going at about 4. Whatever that equates too. Im not sure what it should sound like when cutting to be honest. How do you tell you are going too slow and might cause damage to the bit for example?

This was very helpful. Thanks for posting that.

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Leave a bit radially (sides) and axially (bottom). Not much, 1mm, need to make sure there is something is cut away on the radius.

I am impressed by @AdamsLeatherWorks F&S. The limiting factor here my be how good the work holding is.

I bought a tachometer (this one specifically) in order to set an accurate RPM. It comes with retro-reflective tape but the adhesive wouldn’t stay put so I just super glued a square of it on one face of the collet nut.

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