Hey guys/gals. Thought id drop a link here to my spoilboard system. Just one of many that are out there.
Ive decided to go a totally different direction and build it with slabs for threaded inserts, t track, dog holes, AND what I think is the best part the sac boards. If you build it you should never have to replace your threaded wasteboard again. Do all your through cuts on sac boards.
Take a peek if you want. Always here to answer questions too. Take care everyone.
Happy carving. Onefinity CNC Multi Option Spoilboard System | Etsy
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No machine yet and learning Carveco Maker. What kind of files does it come with? Looks like a good system
Thanks Ryan - oddly enough, Etsy pushed your spoil board to me via email this morning! I like the combination of dog holes and threaded inserts. I might do the same.
-Tom
Funny… im not paying etsy for ads at all. Not sure if its worth it yet… Perhaps when I have more items up there I will pay a little…
thanks for sharing tho 
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What is the length of the bolts
Depends… - 1’ , 1.5" and 2" for different use cases.
For instance, 1" work just fine to attach the aux spoilboards to the main spoil. If you want to add the cam clamps on top, those require 1.5"
Different uses for different sizes. All the bolts are in my instructions, that I use.
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Ryan (@dunginhawk) - what sized threaded inserts are you recommending or using? 1/4-20, M3, M5? Searching Amazon and the choices are horrifyingly large. Do you have a direct link?
-Tom
Thanks Ryan - interested if you think those are better than these:
-Tom
I dont like t nuts at all… ive built many spoil boards in the past and they tend to slip out or especially in mdf, strip out of the wood.
Ill only use threaded inserts , but thats not to say you cant use t nuts 
Thanks Ryan - you validated all my concerns. I shall press on as planned
-Tom
Ryan,
I want to purchase your files but have some questions.
Are the files able to be edited in vcarve, or are they just Gcode?
What width do your boards need to be ripped to? Can the width of these be changed or do they need to be kept as is for the hole spacing?
Thanks
I provide vcarve files, AI, SVG, DXF. Go crazy
4.75" on the nuts… I mean technically I dont care if you edit the system to fit your needs, but if you edit the width of the boards it will mess up the entire system haha
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Newbie here, I’m a little confused about the sacrificial board.
What is it, how is it attached?
Sacrificial board aka waste board aka spoil board all refer to a piece of material placed between your bench top (that your machine is screwed into) and your router. It’s there so you can cut all the way through your project material without cutting into your bench top.
It’s typically made of plywood or MDF and 3/4” or more thick so you can re-surface it as you use your machine and cut into it a lot. If you do a lot of metal machining using HDPE is a good (but expensive) material because you can use various liquid coolants without causing warping or swelling issues with your spoil board.
As you use your machine you’ll get anything from traces of your cuts (if you onion skin your cuts) to deeper grooves & cuts if you typically cut materials that are not consistent in thickness across the project piece or you do deep over cuts to make sure your project is released from the excess material. Over time these cuts and grooves will prevent you from having a consistent and flat surface under your material and you’ll resurface it with your surfacing bit. After a bunch of resurfacing operations the spoilboard gets thin and you simply remove the old one and replace it with a new one.
Typically it is sized to fit the maximum area reachable by your router so you can have a nice flat surface under your whole project. People often embed t-track or threaded inserts so they can use different clamping methods. They’re not required because there are hold down methods that do not require threaded clamps.
Many people will also engrave various things into the spoilboard to provide positioning aids - like grid lines, circles, etc so you can easily line project material up square to the table. You can also machine in positioning pins to make two-sided or tiled projects easier to locate. Advanced users will incorporate removable sections to allow thicker material than the stock router height range allows or provide the ability to do things like dovetails on the end of boards.
If you’re brand new to all of this, get a piece of 3/4” MDF, slide it between your machine’s feet, screw it down and surface it. Later after you’ve got some time in you’ll see other people’s spoilboards and features you’ll want & use vs. trying to figure out which configuration of dog holes, t-tracks, Matchfit channels and threaded inserts you might (or might not) use before you even know how or if they’d be useful to you.
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