Spindle/Z Slider dropping / Spindle drop down on Poweroff/Estop (Elite Series)

I did some additional testing and found that my spindle only drops on power ON IF the E-Stop is already depressed. If the E-Stop isn’t activated (normal out position) then I don’t get a drop when powering on.

It may or may not drop a bit when powering OFF completely or pressing the E-Stop while it’s on. Seems pretty random now. Like I mentioned before, it only requires a little bit of force/mass to get the spindle to slide when there’s no power, so it’s right on the edge.

Brown Santa came early…

Got it installed and z won’t move. If i remove the motor and use a screwdriver i can turn it, but its difficult. I have no doubt this resistance is tripping the z motor alarm. It wasn’t free spinning, but as memory serves it wasn’t as bad either.

Was there any settings you had to manipulate before and after the brake install?

I’m also considering i wasnt as OCD as i thought i was when installing my flyback diode and have considered switching the wires at the relay, since the brake is bipolar it SHOULDN’T hurt anything. Right?

I would start by checking that the brake works via the relay.
Check that the diode is installed correctly across the +/- wires.
I believe the brake is released/off when it receives VDC+ to the coil, so the relay should be set so that when the Estop is in its normal/safe state, the relay powers the brake.

Also, could you confirm your wiring - perhaps with another/updated sketch like the one you provided earlier?

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Yup, bench power supply, test the brake away from the machine and motors.

That’s been done… well before adding the relay and the diode

I called someone who is also knowledgeable with all things masso and an electrical engineer for almost as long as I’ve been alive, got it working when burning the midnight oil.
The relay wasn’t outputting power, or enough power, so we added some power to the output ports.

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This is an option for 3D printers, it ties the motor phases together and acts as a break on power off. Perhaps a larger version (or even this one) would be a good solution: Z Motor Brake - PrintyPlease.uk

The shaft still turns when the motor is unplugged. I don’t know how good of a solution it is if it’s just a pcb board

If you unplug the motor and bridge the phases + and -'s together, youll see that it creates a brake. That’s what this board does.

How did you handle the 8mm to 3/8 difference in the shaft coupling the Masso motor to the brake.

Looked for a brake with a 8mm in/out shaft.
The one i got seems to be discontinued or something because the website lists it as unavailable

Hey Colin, hey Chris,

this relies on electric motors acting as electric generators when moved, so with the coils connected this way, when moved, it creates an electromagnetic force against the motion. This is a known effect. It works, if you tolerate a small amount of motion and the fact that there is a limit with this force. But it cannot replace a brake. To implement a safe stop mode as Emergency Stop, you have to ensure that at same time the motion is prevented and the motor is powerless.

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I didn’t think it was a suitable solution. May address some of the problem, but wasn’t a solution…

My dog keeps barfing, so i stopped feeding him… problem solved…

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Thank you for sharing your success, as well as the wiring diagram.
Just so I understand, the ES output from Masso was not outputting enough voltage to trigger the Masso relay input?
In your diagram, it looks like it is split, and one leg goes to the Onefinity box. Masso says you can connect up to 2 relay inputs to the ES output, but maybe what it connects to inside the Onefinity box causes the voltage to drop even more?
How did you add power to the Masso controller output port - I do not see that on your diagram?

Sorry for all the questions - I imagine after the time spent you want to leave this topic - I just like to learn as it may help myself or others in future projects.

So happy you got it working. As I said before, In my opinion I think it is a safe and solid solution that will give you peace of mind - well worth the time, effort, and money invested.

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The output from the relay to the brake wasn’t putting out any significant power to speak of.
Like i said i was able to manually rotate the brake when it was plugged into the relay with a screw driver, but it was fairly difficult, likely causing motor alarms when trying to move. I wasn’t able to rotate it when it wasn’t plugged in. I was thinking there was some setting somewhere then i called my buddy and that’s when i hooked the multimeter up and came to the realization that the relay wasn’t outputting the power needed to fully disengage the brake. Now when i hit the estop i can hear it snap closed, and unlock i can hear it snap open.

The es output port just activates the normally open/ normally close part of the relay. The way i added more power was the lower part at the relay where i added a jumper wire from the power input and plugged it into the common at the relay output, then the negative of the brake to the power input negative terminal. Maybe the 3a fuse was too restricting, i think i read the relay can utilize 5a. The relay signal comes in from the single terminal at the top, and triggers the relay to open or close which sends the power to the device

I found these and thought they were the coolest (and can be utilized in my shop build as well), so this is what i plugged the router and shopvac es output as it goes to the black box, the other one into the relay, and the single side going to masso… intent being i don’t want to lose functionality, even though it’s a function i don’t use. Not split but merge.

I’m not ready to leave it yet… but yeah, a big relief… i feel like the kids in South park and Make love not warcraft (3 min for relevant part, earlier for context)

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Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions.

That what was I thought you meant. <I had tried to explain this in #108 above(my apologies, this comment was unnecessary :disappointed:)>, but I am happy you got the help to get it to work.

I highlighted the example that ‘most closely’ matches your solution in Masso’s Estop wiring diagram - but it is for a driver enable circuit.

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Sure, you’ve been very helpful and a reliable source of information. To deprive you of answers to questions for clarification would be sacrilege. Your contributions haven’t gone unnoticed, i promise!!

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Hey Chris
I have 2 - 24volt DC power supplies one is 1 amp, the other one is 14.5 amp.
You think i can get away using the one amp

On the ac side mine is fused to 1a, dc 3a so it depends which one. Mine puts out 75w


Heres a shot of the labels
The big one is 144watts so i guess that works

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